Stereotypes. Whether we want to admit it or not, we all have them. Some have more than others, but everyone prejudges at some point, fairly or not. When you spend your entire life hearing horrible things about a group of people, or a country, or a culture, it’s hard not to form an opinion – regardless of whether you’ve met those people, visited that country, or know anything about the culture in question.

So, when we decided to visit Colombia during our time in South America on our RTW trip, many family members and friends were up in arms. We’ve all watched the news. We’ve all read the reports. We know that Colombia is filled with nothing but drug-dealing, machete-wielding, machine-gun-carrying, kidnapping, violent people – right?

While I have to admit that I was apprehensive when contemplating a visit to Colombia, I am more than ecstatic that I listened to the people who had actually been there instead of the doom-and-gloom reports of the media. I can’t help but chuckle now at the absurdity of thinking that traveling in Colombia was going to be a bad idea.

So, check your preconceived notions at the door and forget everything you’ve heard about Colombia, because I’m here to break down the three biggest barriers that might prevent you from visiting this wonderful, awe-inspiring, beautiful country filled with the most delightful people I’ve ever met.

Misconception 1: Colombia is full of cocaine-addled drug addicts.

Tinto Vendor-Cartegena
Tinto Vendor: Cartegena

I’m not going to lie and say that I didn’t also have this misperception of Colombians. According to BBCAmerica, Colombia produces 62% of the world’s cocaine. The majority comes to America, constituting about 90% of the cocaine used in the States, according to PBS.

But times are changing. The Colombian government has taken real steps over the last decade to slow cocaine production. The United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime claims that production in 2008 was the lowest in a decade, falling 28% just since the previous year.

The irony in all this is that the vast majority of the cocaine Colombia produces is exported. And Colombians are more than willing to point that out. In one of the most interesting evenings of our entire year-long trip, I spent hours discussing this phenomenon with a group of young, early-twenties Colombian college students at our hostel in Bogota. They were quite insistent about pointing out that they aren’t the ones using, we are. They hate that the rest of the world has this perception of them as a bunch of drug addicts, when in reality it’s the western countries’ drug problems that fuel cocaine production in a country like Colombia.

They went on to talk about how younger generations of Colombians are motivated by education. They are intent on shedding this unfair label their country has had since the 80s and 90s when Colombia was ruled by Pablo Escobar and the drug cartels. They want foreigners to come see that their country, and their population, is the complete opposite of what most perceive.

This conversation happened on our second night in Colombia. It was refreshing to see a group of young men and women so patriotic and passionate about correcting the misperceptions about their country. I was more than impressed, and even though I had spent less than 48 hours there up to that point, I had already noticed a remarkable degree of friendliness, kindness, and happiness amongst the Colombian people – none of which was coupled with the use of narcotics. The remainder of our month in Colombia only reinforced those first impressions.

Misconception 2: Colombia is dangerous. You will get robbed, kidnapped, shot, or possibly killed.

Plaza Bolivar-Bogota
Plaza Bolivar: Bogota

Colombia has had its share of violence in the last 30 years – there’s no way around that, and there’s no way to hide that. It was a very dangerous place, even as recently a decade ago. And there still are some dangerous areas in Colombia. But as I mentioned above, times are changing.

The Colombian people are embracing that change – they want change, and they are doing everything in their power to expedite it. At no point in our month in Colombia did we ever feel as though we were in any kind of danger. In fact, the local people went out of their way to steer tourists clear of any places that may be dangerous.

It all started when we got off the plane and started asking the usual questions: “Where’s an ATM?” “Where can we change money?” “Where’s the best place to get a cab?” We asked those questions more times than I can count over the course of the trip. Normally we got some icy responses and pointing, usually not very many smiles.

Now, I don’t want to paint the rest of South American countries as being unfriendly, because they weren’t – but just like at home, asking questions like these at airports and bus stations usually isn’t met with friendly enthusiasm. But in Colombia, everything was met with just that – enthusiasm, friendliness, and a huge smile.

After arriving at our hostel and finding out that there was a problem with the room we reserved, we moved. While we were initially frustrated, we quickly changed our tune as the woman working there worked so hard and fast to find us a new place, all the while apologizing over and over and even walking us to our new place. The people at the new hostel could not have been more helpful and friendly. One of the workers had a house in the beach town of Taganga, and when he found out we were planning to go there, he invited us to his place – not just to hang out, but to stay. Anything we needed, they helped with, and they always did it with a smile.

Colombians always seemed to be smiling. It was contagious. How can one not be happy in a place like this?

Zona Cafetera (Coffee Country)
Zona Cafetera (Coffee Country)

And it continued in that way. Cab drivers, servers, bartenders, everyone who worked at our hostel, people we met in the streets, police officers, guards – literally everyone – was open and warm. It was almost surreal to see this kind of friendliness. Everyone was patient with our Spanish. Everyone was willing to help.

After learning more about Colombians and their culture, I think they are just embracing the chance to be happy. After living under so much violence, after their country was torn apart over the last several decades by drug cartels and paramilitary groups, they are rejoicing.

While sometimes as a tourist and traveler I have felt not wanted and as though I was a burden to the local people, it was the complete opposite in Colombia. We were welcomed with open arms, and not just because we had money to spend. They were genuinely happy to see us visiting their country. And the pride that was evident in that group of college students was seen everywhere. Colombians love their country, and they want the rest of the world to feel the same.

Misconception 3: There’s really nothing much to see in Colombia.

Taganga Beach
Taganga Beach

Hopefully by now I’ve convinced you that Colombia is a perfectly safe place to travel. But since many people have never even considered a trip there, you probably have no idea what’s awaiting you. While the people are what puts Colombia over the top as a tourist destination, I don’t want to short-change the beauty the country has to offer.

There are bustling metropolises like Bogota and Medellin that have everything large, urban cities in other countries have to offer, but without the attitude that usually comes with them. Tinto (sweet, black coffee) vendors are everywhere offering 25¢ cups of coffee. Beautiful, unique tourist attractions like the Gold Museum and Police Museum offer something that most other museums don’t – like free admission and personalized tours by Colombian police officers, all with the goal of improving their English.

There are stunning beach cities like Cartagena that offer not only beautiful white sand beaches, but also gorgeous architecture and wonderful food. A short jaunt up the Caribbean coast offers fishing villages like Taganga, where literally everyone we met stayed longer than planned – I’m serious, everyone. Fresh seafood vendors, masseuses, and jewelry touts slowly sauntered down the beach in an extremely laid back manner, even being so polite as asking permission before showing you their goods.

Cabo Beach-Parque Nacional Tayrona
Cabo Beach: Parque Nacional Tayrona

Then there’s Tayrona National Park, the most beautiful, serene, and empty tropical locale I’ve ever visited. Sleep in a hammock on the beach, enjoy hiking through lush jungle from deserted beach to deserted beach, and take advantage of the solitude and lack of development that a place with this much beauty very rarely affords. Tayrona is a place where days can be wasted away just enjoying nature, swimming in crystal clear waters, lounging on what seems like your own personal beach, and watching a coconut slowly being taken out to sea and being brought back to the beach. It truly is Heaven on Earth.

Big cities and beach oases aren’t all that Colombia offers, though. Trek through the jungle like Indiana Jones to La Ciudad Perdida (the Lost City). Spend time on a finca (coffee farm) lounging around the pool, sipping coffee, and touring the coffee plantations, all the while being treated as though you’re part of the family. Go salsa dancing in Cali, visit a cathedral carved out of a rock salt mine in Zipaquira, go rafting, kayaking, or paragliding in San Gil. Colombia really does have it all.

One thing a trip to Colombia did was open my eyes. As few as five years ago, I never would have thought to travel in a country like Colombia. It just wasn’t something that had ever occurred to me. But now I am fascinated by the way different cultures live their lives. I want to do away with that wall of stereotypes that have been built up over the years. I want to make my own conclusions about a country and its people.

And while those stereotypes and barriers have been slowly crumbling and deteriorating the more places I go and the more people I meet, Colombia took a sledgehammer and knocked a huge hole in that wall. I urge you to let Colombia do the same thing for you.

all photos by Megan and Adam Seper and may not be used without permission

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

The World’s Messiest Festivals

Most of the time, when travelers are thinking about going to a foreign country in order to witness a particular festival celebration first-hand, they’re thinking in terms of what festival will help them understand the culture better, or which ones have the most free-flowing alcohol. But if you’re one of those travelers who just wants to get dirty – and I mean really dirty – in order to help the locals celebrate something, then these messy festivals should be right up your alley.

Orange Throwing in Italy

Oranges fly through the air in Ivrea
Oranges fly through the air in Ivrea

The town of Ivrea in the Piedmont region of northern Italy may be a quiet town most of the year, but during its annual February carnival things get messy. That’s because the most famous part of Ivrea’s annual carnival is the battle of the oranges. The orange fight of the Carnevale d’Ivrea is said to have originated in the 12th century, when a local woman not only refused to let the local duke sleep with her on her wedding night (a custom at the time), she chopped off his head and thus set off a revolution. Today, the oranges which locals chuck at one another are said to represent the duke’s head. The orange-throwing isn’t a free-for-all, although it might look chaotic – the people of Ivrea are split into 9 teams who attack one another. Some ride high-up in carriages above the crowd (these people are said to represent the guards of the famous beheaded duke), while others throw oranges from below. No matter where they come from, the oranges – thrown with speed – can hurt. If you want to avoid getting hit, wearing a red cap lets the orange throwers know you’re just watching. If you want to get in on the action, you’ll need to join one of the teams (which is easy to do – just volunteer!).

Pumpkin Chucking in Deleware

Because the family that hurls pumpkins together, stays together
The family that hurls pumpkins together, stays together

What symbolizes Autumn more than a pumpkin throwing contest, I ask you? Nothing, I say, and I think the folks behind the World Championship Punkin Chunkin festival would agree. What began in 1986 as a sort of a bet between four friends about who could throw a pumpkin furthest has blossomed into a popular annual event that takes place the week after Halloween each year (great way to get rid of those unwanted holiday decorations). In recent years, as many as 20,000 people have made the pilgrimage to Sussex County in Delaware to either watch pumpkins flying through the air or enter their own apparatus in a bid to chuck their pumpkin the furthest. Now, this isn’t a messy event if you’re just a spectator or even one of the pumpkin chuckers – but if you’re on the clean-up crew? I’d call that a messy festival of the highest order.

Colored Powder Throwing in India

Pretty colors make some people loopy
The pretty colors make some people loopy

As far as most of these messy festivals go, the results can’t exactly be called "pretty." Not so with Holi, the Hindu so-called Festival of Colors that takes place each year in India around the end of February or beginning of March. The second day of Holi is marked by participants (which is everyone) throwing colored powders at one another – so while your clothing may never be the same, the spectacle itself is quite lovely. The powder-throwing, aside from being delightfully fun, has medicinal origins – the powders are made from medicinal herbs which are intended to ward off the fevers and other illnesses which generally come up as the weather changes at that time of year. Along with the powders, water is also thrown, leaving some people with a tie-dye effect on their bodies – at least for a little while. In addition to India, Holi is also celebrated in Nepal, Guyana, Trinidad, and West Bengal, where it’s called Dolyatra. Some reports say that the colored powders and pastes actually contain toxic chemicals these days, so before you decide to take part, be sure to do your research.

Tomato Throwing in Spain

This is also how Heinz makes its ketchup
This is also how Heinz makes its ketchup

Food fights are just about the messiest festivals around, and the town of Buñol in Spain holds a doozy every year. Each August on the fourth Wednesday of the month, locals and tourists alike crowd into the town and spend a couple hours hurling tomatoes at one another. The festival is called La Tomatina, and while the tomato-throwing portion is only one part of the whole week-long festival, it’s the only part that anyone outside Spain really knows anything about. There are tours you can join which are organized solely around the tomato food fight, and some even provide the necessary gear you’ll need. Not sure what "gear" I might be referring to? Why I’m talking about goggles, of course. Imagine having to explain to an emergency room doctor in Spain why you’ve got a beefsteak tomato lodged in your eye socket. Oh, and if you’re going to go, either wear something that’s already pink or something you don’t mind ending up pink afterwards.

Water Fight in Thailand

Water flies for the Thai New Year
Water flies for the Thai New Year

While you might accidentally pour what’s in your beer glass over your neighbor at the bar when someone shouts "Happy New Year," people in Thailand celebrate their new year by dousing one another with water on purpose. Songkran, the Thai New Year, happens each year in mid-April and is marked by massive water fights. Locals and visitors alike are out in force with buckets, bowls, garden hoses, water guns, elephants (yes, elephants), and any other water-delivery method they’ve got at their disposal – and anyone is fair game. This no-holds-barred water fight originally was just a small amount of water poured over someone’s hands as a sign of respect, but it’s clearly gone beyond that now (although the water is still seen as a sign of respect). In fact, if you’re in Thailand in mid-April you’ll be glad that an all-out water fight is now the traditional way to celebrate the new year, because it’s so hot that being drenched is a welcome relief.

Tomato Fight in Colombia

Colombia's tomato fight looks messier than Spain's
Colombia’s tomato fight looks messier than Spain’s

Having a tomato fight be your country’s messy festival isn’t something the Spaniards have all to themselves. In fact, the town of Sutamarchan in Colombia also has a tomato-throwing festival on its calendar each year. Colombia’s version is called the "Tomatina Colombiana," and it takes place in June. While the Spanish Tomatina festival is decidedly more famous and undoubtedly more of a tourist attraction, the Colombian tomato festival is absolutely no less messy. In fact, judging from some of the pictures, it actually looks a little messier than its Spanish counterpart, in that the tomato mush participants are standing in isn’t just red – it’s brown. (Not sure I want to know why.) There’s not as much information about this tomato fight available out there, so if you’re looking to be among the only tourists at a messy festival, this might be the one to pick.

Water Splashing in China

More water fighting fun, this time in China
More water fighting fun, this time in China

Like Thailand’s water festival, China’s also takes place in mid-April to mark the start of the New Year. The water splashing happens in the Yunnan province, and is only part of the whole 3-5 day festival celebrated by the Dai people. As in Thailand, dousing people with water in this Chinese festival has special significance – water is the symbol of holiness and purity, and it’s meant to wash away all the bad things from the previous year so everyone can start the new year fresh. So in this tradition, the more water you get splashed with, the better the outlook for your new year! Budget travelers should love this, as it could save you from needing a place to take a shower for at least a few days. Other things you’ll see if you stick around for more than just the water fight include dragon boat races, fireworks, and traditional dances.

Lotus Throwing in Thailand

Sweepers follow the Buddha's boat collecting lotus flowers
Sweepers follow Buddha’s boat collecting lotus flowers

Okay, I know, throwing lotus flowers doesn’t exactly sound messy. And in comparison to some of the other festivals on this list, it isn’t. But this tradition, which marks the end of the Rub Bua Festival in Samut Prakan, Thailand, could be considered messy if you’re one of the people who’s on clean-up duty. The lotus-throwing portion of the festival is held in October each year, when an image of the Buddha is floated down the river through town. People on either side of the river throw lotus flowers onto the boat carrying the Buddha, and as you can imagine many of them miss the boat (so to speak). There are several smaller boats trailing the Buddha boat, and the people on those smaller crafts are designated to sweep up the flowers that didn’t quite make it and deposit them onto the main boat. Buddhists come from all over Thailand to take part in this festival, which means there are a lot of flying lotus flowers, so watch where you’re going.