Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Walled Cities Around the World

While today’s modern cities certainly are graced by large
fortifications, since the first days of civilization walls have been built
around cities to protect citizens from outside invaders and attacks. In fact,
as early as the 8th century BCE, the city of Jericho
in what is now the West Bank was protected by
a wall. For thousands of years following this time, when cities were often
ruled as city states and needed protection from their neighbors, walls and
fortifications were built to defend from potential aggressors.

In the Caribbean, walls
were built to fend off pirates. In Medieval Europe, they were used to protect
the city from Visigoths, Gauls, Franks or Huns. In China, walls were built to protect settlements
from Mongols and other warring factions.

While these walled cities served to protect the communities
they guarded from various threats, beyond their defensive utility, many walls
also had important symbolic functions – representing the status and
independence of the communities they embraced.

According to UNESCO, today there are more than 50 cities
around the world that have city walls which are still or almost complete. While
many city walls that once stood around cities have long been demolished in the
name of modernization, changing defense strategies and city growth, the walls
still stand in many old cities around the world.

Carcassonne,
France

Fairy tale-esque Carcassonne
Fairy tale-esque Carcassonne

Perched up on a hill, the walled old portion of this French medieval
walled city looks like something straight out of a fairy tale. You half expect
a giant, fire breathing dragon to appear from behind the ramparts that separate
the walled portion of the city from rest of modern day Carcassonne. Perched atop a hill and located
at a strategic location in southwestern France
on trade and migratory routes, Carcassonne
was fortified over centuries by Gauls, Romans, Visigoths Moors and Franks, who continued to build up
the walls of this city and which earned it a reputation of being an
impenetrable fortress.

One of the most popular attractions in France, this
unique walled city, which was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in
1997, draws more than 3 million visitors annually. Carcassonne is encircled by a huge double row
of fortified walls that run almost 2 miles long and which are punctuated by 56
imposing towers.

Is your interest piqued? Read more about Visiting
Carcassonne.

Xi’an, China

Xi'an, China
Old walls, new city in Xi’an, China

A country known for a famous wall spanning a great length of
the country, the Chinese did not only build walls to keep out their Mongol
neighbors to the North. While Xi’an is probably
best known for the famous terra cotta army that can be found just outside of
the city, Xi’an
is also surrounded by a large and impressive wall.

One of the oldest cities in China
and an important cultural and sometimes political capital, Xi’an
(which was historically known as Chang’an) is considered one of the four great
ancient capitals of China
and has served as the capital city for some of the most important Chinese
dynasties.

Located at the terminus of the Silk Road, Xi’an has long been situated in an important
strategic location over the course of its more than 3,000 years of history as a
city. While the traditional name of this city meant "perpetual peace" in
Chinese, the city was fortified and protected from outside attacks during the
Han dynasty when the original wall (measuring 25 km in length and is 12-16
meters thick) was built, enclosing a large part of the city. Following several
years of unrest across China,
the Sui Dynasty took control, placing their capital at Xi’an-building the palace, imperial city and
civilian area all within the 84 square kilometers inside the walls-making it
the largest city in the world at the time.

Campeche, Mexico

Walls to keep out pirates in Campeche, Mexico
Walls to keep out pirates in Campeche, Mexico

Located on the Yucatan
peninsula, Campeche was the first natural port
discovered by the Spaniards in Mexico.
The colonial settlement establish in the mid 16th century was built
atop old Mayan ruins. One of the richest port cities in the America during the 16th and 17th
centuries, Campeche was a main target for
pirates that once trolled the Caribbean waters
in large numbers.

Because of frequent raids by pirates like the famous Francis
Drake and Henry Morgan, the walls surrounding Campeche were built the late 17th
century in an effort to protect the city from pirates and buccaneers (though
not always successfully). A wall surrounding the city was built that measured
2,560 meters in length and formed an irregular hexagon with 8 defensive
bastions around the main parts of the city.

Today the city retains many of the old colonial Spanish city
walls and fortifications and the city was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage
site in 1999 for the preservation and quality of the architecture.

San Gimignano, Italy

'San Gimignano dalle belle torri' (San Gimignano with the  beautiful towers)
‘San Gimignano dalle belle torri’ (San Gimignano with the beautiful towers)

Historically a stopping point for pilgrims on their way to
Rome and the Vatican, San Gimignano sits on the Road Francigena-the ancient road between Rome and Canterbury that
was an important Medieval Road and pilgrimage route. Because of its important
and strategic location along this route, the residents of San Gimignano enjoyed
great wealth and power and in 998 the suburbs were encircled with the first walled enclosure.

In a time when the cities and states of Italy
fought against one another, San Gimignano allied with nearby Florence and in 1207, the new town-walls (which today are
recognizable in the city center
) were built incorporating the villages of S.Matteo and San Giovanni.
Three gates of these town-walls
still remain: the Arco Di Goro, Arco de Becci and of San Matteo.

Over the next few decades, the alliance
of San Gimignano with Florence
became stronger and during these years the city skyline of Saint
Gimignano was studded with numerous
towers-
symbols and testimonies to the fortune of the families that
possessed them. Today the city is known throughout the world as. In the 13th century there 72 towers, but today only have 14 survived.

Today San Gimignano, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a
major tourist destination in Tuscany.

Taroudant,
Morocco

Walled oasis in the Moroccan desert
Walled oasis in the Moroccan desert

Nicknamed the "Grandmother of Marrakech," and surrounded by
high, red, earthy walls, Taroudant is a walled city located in the Sous Valley
in southern Morocco.
Situated on the road leading from Ouarzazte and Marrakech, Taroudant has long
been located at a strategic point along the Caravan route leading to and from
the Sahara desert to the Mediterranean coast
and capital city.

Unlike Marrakech, which also has walls enclosing parts of
the old city, almost all of Taroudant is located within the large, fortified
walls that surround the city. While the walls and famous mosque in Taroudant
were built during the city’s golden age during the Saadi Dynasty in the 16th
century, Taroudant had flourished since the 11th century thanks to
its producing gold and silver mines and was a major trading post in Africa.

Bruges, Belgium

Walls and canals in Bruges
Walls and canals in Bruges

Long situated at an important strategic location near on the
coastal region of Belgium,
fortifications around Bruges
were first built after Julius Cesar’s conquest of nearby Menapii during the
first century BCE . While the city changed hands of power several times
throughout the next centuries (from the Romans to the Franks to the Vikings),
the latest Viking invasions during the 9th century prompted the
Count of Flanders to reinforce the first Roman fortifications protecting the
city.

After Bruges
received its city charter in the 12th century, the city erected new
walls and canals around the city. After merchant fleets from Genoa
arrived in Bruges in 1277, Bruges
became the main link between northern European Flemish countries and the
Mediterranean, which flooded a huge amount of capital into the city-making Bruges an important
center of both trade and banking.

Over the following centuries, Bruges
became a key trading centre in north-west Europe,
exporting Flemish cloth all over the continent. The city expanded rapidly,
which necessitated the construction of a new circuit of walls in the early 14th
century. However, the first artillery defenses in Bruges were not built until the 16th
century when a double line of earthwork bastions were built in place of the old
medieval walls.

While these walls successfully prevented William of Orange
from reclaiming Bruges from the Spanish in the 17th century, Bruges’
walls were penetrated by the French during the War of Spanish Succession in a
surprise attack (French troops pretending to be deserters succeeded in
capturing one of the gates and they let in the rest of the French forces).

Avila, Spain

The impregnable walls at Avila, Spain
The impregnable walls at Avila, Spain

The highest provincial capital in Spain
at 3665 feet above sea level, Avila
is built on the flat summit of a rocky hill, which rises abruptly in the midst
of a brown, arid, treeless table-land, which gave the city an important strategic
location with long range vantage points from the top of the hill. Avila sits high on the hill, with mountains creating the
dramatic backdrop for the impregnable stone walls that surround and mark the
city of Avila.

Avila
is best known for its medieval city walls, which were first constructed in the
late 11th century over previous Roman and Muslim efforts. The walls
are punctuated with 88 towers and nine gateways, which are still in excellent
repair. In fact, the wall stretching 2.5 km in length is one of the world’s
best preserved medieval defense parameters. Between the 12th and 14th
centuries, the Gothic cathedral at Avila
was built into and integrated into the city’s defenses and has the appearance
of a fortress.

Lahore, Pakistan

The gates into the old city of Lahore
The gates into the old city of Lahore

Located near the Indian border and the Ravi
River, Lahore
is often called the cultural heart of Pakistan and is well known as being
at the center of Pakistani arts, film and academia. However, long before Lahore became the cultural center of Pakistan, it was important and
longstanding trade city.

Lahore
has had many names over its long history-including kacha kot, which means "mud
fort" and implies that the city was almost always surrounded by a wall of some
sort. Because of the often changing name, it is unsure when the fortifications
around the old city were first built, but it Lahore did experience several period in which
the mud fortifications were greatly expanded over the past several thousand
years.

Although many of the walls were destroyed and replaced by
gardens shortly after the British annexed the Punjab region in 1849, access to
the old walled city of Lahore is still gained by way of the 13 ancient gates (7
of which are still standing today).

While ancient walled cities like Avila
and Carcassonne have been restored and protected
over the years, the Punjab government is just
now trying to restore the Royal Trail, which stretches from the Akbari gate to
the Lahore Fort in an effort to gain status as a world heritage site.

York, England

Roman walls in York, England
Roman walls in York, England

Situated at the confluence of two major rivers in northern England and historically known as England’s "second city" and Capital of the
North, the city of York
has long been an important and strategic city since the Roman times. In fact,
the entire Roman Empire was governed from York
for two years and influential historical leaders like Constantine the Great and
others have been associated with the city over its long and tumultuous past.

The first stone fortifications at York were built under what is now the York
Minister and covered an area of 50 acres and housed more than 6,000 soldiers.
After the city was captured by the Vikings during the 9th century
and used as a major river port and trade capital in northern Europe, William
the Conqueror immediately set to work at re-fortifying and protecting the
strategically located trade city.

William the Conqueror built two fortresses on mottes in the
city on either side of the river, which are still visible today. These walls
played an important role during the civil war in England
in 1644, when Parliamentarians besieged York
and many of the homes outside of the city’s protective walls were destroyed.

Baku, Azerbaijan

Cars now cross the gates into old walled Baku
Cars now cross the gates into old walled Baku

The capital and largest city in Azerbaijan
on the southern shore of the Absheron Peninsula, Baku
has a long history of conquests, take overs by outsiders and major destruction
caused by wars. Baku first became important
strategically in the 12th century when an earthquake destroyed the
former capital of Azerbaijan,
Shamakhy, and Baku
was named the new capital.

The historical core of Baku,
which is a fortress marked by the Palace of the Shirvanshahs and the Maiden Tower,
is thought to have been first constructed as early as the 7th
century. During the medieval ages in Baku,
the fortress walls and towers were built larger and stronger.

After 1806, when Baku
was conquered by the Russian Empire, the city wall were repaired and the
fortifications around the city were strengthened. Two gates gave access to the
city, whose walls had dozens of cannons protecting the citizens and the port
was reopened for trade with the reinforced fortifications in place.

While the inner city of Baku
was deemed the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in Azerbaijan in 2000, three years
later, UNESCO placed the old city on its list of "World Heritage in Danger"
citing damage from a November 2000 earthquake, poor conservation as well as
"dubious" restoration efforts.

Rhodes, Greece

Medeival Europe on a Greek isle
Medeival Europe on a Greek isle

Although the colossus of Rhodes (a giant bronze statue that
graced the city and is one of the seven wonders of the ancient world) is no
longer standing on this Greek island, the old medieval city in Rhodes is still classified as a UNESCO World Heritage and
remains a major draw fro millions of tourists every year. While Rhodes was important strategically as a trade port and
stop along Mediterranean sailing routes, it was not until later in the ancient
city’s history that the walls protecting the city were built and fortified.

In 1309 at the end of the Byzantine era, Rhodes became
occupied by the Knights of Hospitalier (who promptly renamed themselves the
Knights of Rhodes) and the city was rebuilt into a model of a European medieval
ideal.

The walls built during this era were successful in
protecting the city from attacks for hundreds of years, keeping the Egyptians
and others from taking over the city. However, despite the walls, Rhodes was
conquered by the growing Ottoman Empire in 1522 and the Knights of Rhodes and
their fellow Christians were forced to retreat to Sicily. For the next 4 centuries, the wall city
of Rhodes was
ruled by the Ottomans.

Today the old city of Rhodes
is not only a UNESCO World Heritage site, but is also known as one of the most
impressive historical sites in Greece.

About the Author

BootsnAll staff writer Julie Blakley first became intrigued by walled cities after a visit to Carcassonne with her family as a kid. When she’s not plotting her next adventure and working on crossing all the walled cities of the world off her "places to go list," she’s busy writing the France Travel Guide.

Photo Credits: Carcassonne, Xi’an, Campeche, San Gimignano, Taroudant, Bruges, Avila, Lahore, York, Baku, Rhodes


Source: bootsnall.com

The old adage; “one size fits all” has never applied to traveling. Open up the travel section of the newspaper or plug in your favorite travel website, and you are bombarded with a plethora of ideas on where to go. From family getaways to a weekend romp, the simplicity of planning a vacation seems more complicated as the web gives you more and more choices. Add that to the state of our economy, making sure you choose the right vacation is as important as getting the best bargain.

Resorts that include everything have made a surge to the top of this vacationer’s list in recent years due to their convenience and pricing. A beach front paradise retreat nestled on long strips of sand and the bluest water is enough for any beachcomber style. Most beach lovers will go along merrily to a tropical spot on the map, but throw in the fact that your meals and that fruity drink with an umbrella in it is included, it might even tempt the semi-beach lover.

My “one size does not fit all” analogy applies perfectly to all-inclusive travel. The mere mention of “all-inclusive” may not include alcoholic drinks or dining in restaurants. Always double check the web site to see exactly what is part of the deal! Some may be for couples only, such as the famous Hedonism II – all you can eat, drink and do.

Other packages appeal to a mix of families, friends and couples. Most do a good job of separating the children and adult pools, kid friendly restaurants to gourmet dining. Couples who do not want to hear the pitter patter of little feet, do not have to. However, as the competition for the most cutting edge "kids club" is high, they are getting more creative and fun! For example, I learned about the Meliá Caribe Tropical where the entire kids club is set up like the land of the Flintstones! I wish this was around when I was a child.

The first step in finding the all-inclusive that fits your needs is to understand exactly what is and is not part of the price. There are different types. The difference between a 24-hour and an all-inclusive that does not claim to be 24/7 is your access to food and drinks. Also, the more deluxe the resort, the more restaurant choices you will have and the longer time spans. The less expensive ones are still a great experience, but expect more buffet style restaurants open at specific times.

Here are two examples of Deluxe 24/7 all inclusive deals that will not break the ban.

The Dominican Republic, specifically Punta Cana, is known for their all inclusive resorts and reasonable pricing. One in particular is the Ocean Blue Golf & Spa Beach Resort. It has everything you need to make your vacation as relaxing or as exciting as you want. To make this deal even sweeter, they are offering one child free (food, activities, etc), so you can take full advantage of all the food and activities you can handle – 24 hours a day! Enjoy a private Jacuzzi, a gorgeous beach and a wide variety of themed restaurants, all drinks included in the price.

Another resort in Punta Cana is the Majestic Colonial – a beach front exclusive and ideal facility for a great holiday. Enjoy six restaurants and nine bars – four nights with flight starting at $677.00.

If you are interested in golf before relaxing in your hammock, check out the Melia Cabo Real located in Los Cabos, Mexico, next door to the Robert Trent Jones II designed Cabo Real Championship Golf Course. The Melia Cabo Real puts a bit of a new twist on the all-inclusive genre. Stay at this luxurious resort for $115.00 per person and enjoy free unlimited golf! A round of golf followed by a refreshing dip in any of their pools might be exactly the vacation that any golfer would love. Unlimited breakfast, lunch, snacks and drinks add to make this the perfect trip.

The list is immeasurable. You can find all of the best deals conveniently at dunhill vacation news. With a little homework, you’ll be able to grab your bag, hit the trail and wind up on the moon-lit bay that you have been dreaming about.


Source: bootsnall.com

So we all know the world economy stands on the frightening precipice that could lead to something much worse in the not too distant future, but finally there is some really good news for Americans who find themselves with a bit of time off (one way or another) and who have a bit of money available. After seeing our dollar become the punching bag of every other currency for the past couple years, out of nowhere it’s gained new strength as what many investors consider a “safe haven” in uncertain times.

Traveling to Europe has gotten reasonable again, and our traditional exchange-rate advantage with Canada is back to some degree, so those places are back in play for Americans. But the news is even better elsewhere, as quite a few countries that had become a bit pricey for us are suddenly bargains. The timing on quite a few of them is even better in that they are in the Southern Hemisphere so the next few months is the ideal time to visit anyway. There’s no telling just how long this will last, and things might even improve more for Americans in the short run, but for now these are some of the better places you should be considering.

Australia

Bondi Beach, Sydney
Bondi Beach, Sydney

July, 2008 – AU$1.02 to US$1
November, 2008 – AU$1.50 to US$1

Costs for most things in Australia had gotten quite high for Americans during the past few years, and in mid 2008 things had really gotten out of hand, but suddenly the tables have turned and Oz now (barely) qualifies as a budget destination for Yanks. Budget hotel rooms in Sydney that would cost around US$90 can now be had for around US$60 per night, and nicer 2- and 3-star tourist hotels can now be yours for around US$80 per night, which is noticeably cheaper than most American cities that are nowhere near as nice as Sydney.

To make things even better, airfares have suddenly and mysteriously dropped as well. A roundtrip from Los Angeles to Sydney has been running a bit over $1,000 for many years now, but all of a sudden fares as low as $742 have appeared. Australia certainly isn’t as cheap as most of the others on this list, but if you’ve been wanting to go this is the perfect combination of events that should get you started, and of course their summer is fast approaching to make things even better.

Iceland

Blue Lagoon, Iceland
Blue Lagoon, Iceland

July, 2008 – 75 Icelandic Krona to US$1
November, 2008 – 120 Icelandic Krona to US$1 (unofficial, see explanation)

Iceland has notoriously been one of the most expensive places in the world for tourists, but due to its recent banking collapse it’s suddenly a bargain and many are now flocking in to take advantage of a situation that is still a bit up in the air. International trading of the Icelandic Krona has been suspended since October 6, so it’s a bit difficult to figure out exactly where things stand at the moment, but previous searches have shown that finding a hotel room in Reykjavik for under US$100 was virtually impossible, and now we are seeing one hotel on the outskirts of the city with rooms for US$19, and many more choices in the US$30 to US$50 range. Beers that were recently well over US$10 apiece in downtown bars are now reported to be in the US$4 range for those fortunate enough to be there now.

Flights from the east coast of the US are starting under $500 these days, and even though the days are short and getting shorter now, the winter weather isn’t nearly as harsh as most people expect, with average temperatures similar to those in New York City. The famous Blue Lagoon thermal pool is always warm, so now might be an ideal time to check out a country that has been on the ‘outrageous’ list for decades.

South Korea

Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul
Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul

July, 2008 – 998 Korean Won to US$1
November, 2008 – 1,260 Korean Won to US$1

South Korea has long held a spot somewhere between the insanity of Japanese prices and the affordability of its neighbors to the west in Asia, but now suddenly our money goes more than 25% further. The exchange rate briefly hit 1,467 just a week ago, which gave us an almost 50% bonus, so this one might go further in our direction again. This is a modern country, and its giant capital of Seoul has all the modern amenities that you could want, so budget hotel rooms under $40 and business-class rooms around $75 per night are real bargains.

Flights from Los Angeles can be had for around $830, and flights from New York are starting around $960 at the moment. Especially now, it’s fairly cheap once you get there, so if you can find a flight that works this might be the ideal time to see this country that is becoming more popular with globetrotters every year.

Argentina

9 de Julio Avenue, Buenos Aires
9 de Julio Avenue, Buenos Aires

July, 2008 – 3.02 Argentine pesos to US$1
November, 2008 – 3.40 Argentine pesos to US$1

While the currency-rate shift hasn’t been quite so dramatic in Argentina, the important thing to know is that Argentina has been a major bargain for a while now, and it’s just gotten a bit better. The country artificially held its money at 1-to-1 with the USD for many years before a banking collapse led to the 2002 decision to let the peso fluctuate, which suddenly gave foreigners about a 70% discount on everything. Inflation since then has slowly chipped away at the advantage, but the country is still a huge bargain, and now even a bit cheaper.

Buenos Aires, sometimes called the Paris of Latin America, is considered one of the nicest cities in the world by its many fans, and comfortable hotel rooms with good locations aren’t difficult to find in the US$50 per night range, and an excellent steak dinner can be found starting well under US$10, with a bottle of quality local wine around US$6 at the same restaurant. Most of the rest of the country is even cheaper, and there are many highlights to explore once you leave the big city. Flights from New York and Miami start around $850 roundtrip, and around $950 roundtrip from Los Angeles.

New Zealand

Queenstown, New Zealand
Queenstown, New Zealand

July, 2008 – NZ$1.30 to US$1
November, 2008 – NZ$1.70 to US$1

New Zealand is “on the list” for nearly every serious traveler who hasn’t yet made it, and it’s hard to find anything but raving reviews from those who’ve visited before. It’s always been a bit cheaper than nearby Australia, and that trend continues, with both of them becoming weirdly affordable due to the strange exchange-rate movements of late. When you go it’s really not wise to linger in the largest city of Auckland, but a hotel there can now be found in the US$50 to US$60 price range on the budget end, and not too much more for something quite nice. Lakeside resorts in the South Island tourist haven of Queenstown are now starting around US$80 per night, but most every other tourist spot in the country is even cheaper.

The trick for visiting New Zealand is to rent a car or campervan, and get out into the gorgeous and varied scenery that covers both islands. With fuel prices coming back down, and cabins or campsites at the many holiday parks now cheaper than ever, the whole place is very reasonable once you get there. Just as with Australia, flight bargains have also appeared out of nowhere, and a roundtrip from Los Angeles can now be found for around US$750, though these bargain fares might be gone soon.

Brazil

Sugarloaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro
Sugarloaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro

July, 2008 – 1.55 Brazilian Real to US$1
November, 2008 – 2.17 Brazilian Real to US$1

There’s much more to this huge country than Rio de Janeiro and its famous beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema, and Brazil has always been fairly affordable for Americans, at least once the plane ticket is paid for. But the currency had been gaining strength against the greenback for more than 4 years straight until the recent shift that has put the whole country solidly back into the “bargain” category. Hotels in Rio have never been all that cheap, but now you can find a good budget place in a good location in the US$50 to US$60 range again, and most all other expenses for food, drinks, entertainment, and attractions are all quite reasonable.

Of course, most of the rest of the country is even cheaper than Rio, so it’s wise to move around and take in other aspects of the country when you are flying so far in the first place. Flights from either Los Angeles or New York to Rio can be found in the $750 neighborhood these days, and of course it’s spring there now and their high season is approaching, so this could be a great winter getaway instead of Hawaii or the Caribbean.

Mexico

Cancun, Mexico
Cancun, Mexico

July, 2008 – 10 Mexican pesos to US$1
November, 2008 – 13 Mexican pesos to US$1

Mexico hasn’t suddenly become a bargain, as it’s pretty much lived on the bargain list all its life, but as you can see the USD now goes about 30% further than it did just a few months ago. The trick here is finding hotels that don’t already base their rates on US dollars, but either way prices that were reasonable before should be even lower now, and of course most of your expenses on food, drinks, entertainment, and souvenirs are now more affordable than they’ve been in at least 5 years. With winter approaching and so much worldwide economic uncertainty we’ll be looking for great specials at some of the more popular resorts that will probably find themselves with more empty rooms than they know what to do with.

Flights from the US to Mexico have also been traditionally reasonable, and nothing has changed there. You can fly roundtrip from either Los Angeles or New York to Mexico City or Cancun starting in the $300 to $350 price range, even as their high season approaches.

South Africa

Lion Sands Game Reserve
Lion Sands Game Reserve

July, 2008 – 7.2 South African Rand to US$1
November, 2008 – 10 South African Rand to US$1

Never known for being especially cheap for Americans, South Africa has always lived on its reputation of great beaches, excellent nature reserves, safari parks, winery tours, golf resorts, and much more. But now it’s pretty cheap for Americans as well. The exchange rate has been lingering in the 6 to 7 Rand per USD range for many years now, so you can imagine how nice it must be when you are getting 10 Rand for every greenback. This is another Southern Hemisphere destination that is weirdly cheap at the perfect time of year for Americans looking for a new adventure. Nice hotels in Cape Town are starting in the US$60 to US$80 range now, and of course most of the rest of the country will come in below that.

Not surprisingly, the tricky part of visiting South Africa is the flights part. You’ll have to change planes at least once, probably in Senegal or in Europe, and the combination of flights will eat up around a full 24 hours, even if you get good connections. Right now flights from New York to Cape Town are starting around $1,100, and from Los Angeles around $1,300.

Friday, March 5, 2010

13 of the Weirdest Bars in the World

In the search for more unusual, out-of this-world travelling experiences, travellers are being lured to the ends of the earth to find the most eccentric, wacky and exciting activities, sights and venues. So if you’re fond of a tipple or two, you might want to try one of these bars. Their locations and gimmicks are sometimes enough to pique your interest, but add alcohol to the mix and you’re in for quite a fun time. Here are 13 of the world’s most strange, exciting and different watering holes that will leave you thirsty for more.

1. Clinic – Singapore

brewood_clinic2Many people don’t like visiting hospitals so this bar might be a little questionable in taste for some. Clinic is a hospital themed bar located within the shopping and entertainment district, Clarke Quay.

It’s not surprising that the architect of the bar was wacky artist Damien Hirst, famous for such works as the cow in formaldehyde. The pill shaped rooms are all interlinked and are designed to give a drug ‘trip’ effect. Guests can drink from test tubes and IV bags, sit in wheelchairs instead of sitting on bar stools, lie on hospital beds with white curtains, and boogie on the capsule-shaped dance floor in the nightclub, Morphine.

The restaurant is designed like an operating room where guests can dine sitting in gold wheelchairs and eating from kidney shaped steel trays. Yum, I just hope the food doesn’t taste like hospital food…

2. Absolut Icebar – Sweden

brewood_icebarThe very first bar to be made entirely of ice can be found in the small town of Jukkasjarvi in Sweden. Although novelty ice bars seem to be popping up everywhere these days, even in the baking hot Niger desert, the Absolut Icebar, within the Ice Hotel, is the original ice bar.

Guests don thermal capes and huddle together in freezing cold conditions surrounded by carefully-crafted ice sculptures. The Absolut vodka cocktails are served in ice glasses, just make sure you don’t get your lips stuck to them!

The ice is sourced from the Torne River in the village of Jukkasjarvi and the frosty bar is only open during the winter from December to April.

3. Red Sea Star Underwater Restaurant, Bar and Observatory – Israel

brewood_redseastarThe world’s first underwater bar, the Red Sea Star, is submerged six meters below the Red Sea in Eilat. Each table has Plexiglass windows – two either side and one above – so that diners can admire the fish, coral, and other sea life from their dinner table. The décor is even marine-inspired with jellyfish stools, urchin cushions, and anemone lighting fixtures.

Before the Red Sea Star was built in 1998, the area on which it stands was a damaged seabed, but four years before it opened the Red Sea Star team started growing a coral nursery surrounding the reef to save and preserve what used to be an active and colourful coral reef.

4. Bojangles – Australia

brewood_bojangles3In the town of Alice Springs in the red centre of Australia, backpackers and travellers on their way to visit Uluru will almost certainly end up at this curious bar.

Walk through the closely guarded saloon doors and you’ll be amazed at what you see – boots hanging from the ceilings, snakes in tanks, and a coffin with a suit of armour inside which says ‘How Much To Touch Ned’s Nuts?’ Pull out some peanuts and throw the shells on the floor, because at Bo’s anything goes.

Sounds like a quirky bar already, but wait – it gets better. If you go to the bathroom you might get a little surprise, for when you come to wash your hands, each tap turns on the water in a different sink!

5. DM Bar – Estonia

brewood_DMbarIf you’re a huge fan and you just can’t get enough of Depeche Mode, this bar in the capital city of Estonia, Tallinn, is entirely devoted to the band.

It doesn’t seem the most obvious choice of band to dedicate a bar to, but the synth-poppers from Basildon in the UK are extremely popular anywhere east of Berlin. The bar’s walls are filled with Depeche Mode memorabilia and guess what’s on the playlist for the night? You guessed it, Depeche Mode songs.

Members of the band Martin Gore and Andy Fletcher have actually partied the night away in the bar which is sure to be one of the strangest hat tips to the band.

6. Hobbit House – Philippines

brewood_hobbithouse2Hobbit House in the Philippines is based on the J.R.R. Tolkien trilogy, “Lord of The Rings,” and all the staff in the bar are friendly and charming dwarfs. The dark, smoke-filled bar offers around 100 different kinds of beer and is a great live music venue.

Opened 35 years ago, The Hobbit House has been around in Manila so long, it is a famous institution. The Iowa-born owner, Jim Turner, is an ex-Peace Corps volunteer who has rescued these dwarfs from the slums and streets of Manila and given them an honest place to work. He has given them new cultural identities and they are no longer shunned or avoided; they are respectable business people.

The bartenders are merry characters and entertainers who are up for a laugh and will happily pose with tourists for photos. The Hobbit House features possibly the world’s smallest Elvis impersonator, hobbit jugglers, comics, dancers, flame-eaters, and singers.

7. Baobab Bar – South Africa

brewood_baobabDrinking a beer inside a tree? You wouldn’t think anyone would even fit, but you will inside this 6,000 year old Baobab tree.

The hollow 72-foot high tree offers a cool interior to step into from the heat outside and now has a bar, dart board and benches.

It was created in a Baobab tree in Sunland Farm in Limpopo to keep the thirsty locals happy and now thousands of tourists travel from miles around to have a pint in this interesting establishment.

The trunk has a 155-foot circumference and is wide enough to fit 40 people inside it. It even has its own cellar with natural ventilation to keep the beer cool!

The pub is owned by the van Heerdens, who decided to open a pub when they discovered a natural hollow in the tree in the 1980s. While clearing out the hollow centre of the tree trunk, the van Heerdens found historical evidence of Bushmen who may have once lived in the tree.

8. Das Klo Bar – Germany

brewood_klo2One of the most bizarre drinking experiences ever, Klo Bar in Berlin is reputed to attract more tourists than Charlottenburg Castle and the Museum Island. Klo 1 and 2 no longer exist, but Klo 3, which started life on Christmas Day 1971, still does. Part flea market, part zoo, and part theme park, Das Klo (German for “the toilet”) is meant to evoke the inside of a toilet, but it ends up giving visitors the feel of stepping onto an Indiana Jones movie set.

Prepare to be shocked – expect red wine in blood transfusion packs, electric shocks from tables, rotating bar stools, a hammer that comes down unexpectedly, and a bird spider, boa constrictor and iguana. It’s an attack on the senses – upon entering Klo you’ll be sprinkled by water, spooked by skeletons and a gust of air might blow ladies’ skirts up. Lightning flashes across the rooms and there is a false ceiling of paper mâché rocks that fall in a giant avalanche every 10 minutes. A kilted figure in the ladies loo is booby-trapped so that whenever a lady lifts the kilt to see if he is going commando, a siren goes off in the bar.

Seating is a choice of coffins or toilet seats, the beer is served in new urine specimen bottles, and the food is sausages with sauerkraut fetchingly presented in huge enamel potties. Supposedly most of the owner’s ideas came to him sitting on the loo.

9. Skeleton Bar – Switzerland

brewood_skeletonThis odd museum-bar was designed by Swiss man Hans Rudi Giger who worked as a designer on the Oscar-winning Alien movies. Giger designed the title character, the human-eating Alien monster, and won an Oscar for best special effects in 1980.

The bar in Gruyere, Switzerland, will remind you of the alien – or perhaps sitting inside a monster’s stomach, with its spinal chord-like skeleton decoration.

The creepy, horror movie-inspired bar is decorated with skeleton bones throughout, from the walls and chairs to the flower vases.

10. Floyd’s Pelican Bar – Jamaica

brewood_floydsFloyds has to be the coolest bar in the Caribbean. Looking out from the shore at the dot on the horizon, your first reaction might be “is that really a bar?”

Perched on stilts on a sandbar, Floyds is made completely of driftwood and palm leaves. Bring a sharp object and you can carve your name in the floor. It looks like it might fall over, but it’s surprisingly sturdy.

Floyds sits about a mile off the south coast of Jamaica in Parottee Bay and local fisherman will take you out there. There’s nothing like a cold beer in the middle of the ocean, doing a bit of snorkelling and enjoying a fresh lobster meal prepared by Floyd himself. You might spot some pelicans and a few sting rays too.

11. Alux Restaurant & Lounge – Mexico

brewood_caveAlux, in Playa Del Carmen, is one of only two restaurants in the world inside a cavern.

The whole Yucatan peninsula in Mexico is riddled with an interconnected system of caverns and subterranean rivers and after years of planning and restoration, Alux restaurant and lounge was opened for the public to enjoy this natural environment with a drink in hand.

The Flintstones-like cavern has numerous chambers where you can lounge, drink, dine, and dance amongst the stalagmites and stalactites, which are lit up in shades of violet, blue and pink. Small, magical beings called ‘Aluxes’ are said to occupy these caverns, so look out for one as you dance the night away! It’s a drinking spot you mustn’t miss if you’re staying in Playa Del Carmen.

12. William Thornton Floating Bar & Restaurant – British Virgin Islands

brewood_willytThe William Thornton is a steel 100-foot schooner with a restaurant and bar on board, moored at The Bight off Norman Island.

The Willy T, as it is affectionately known, began life in the 80s as a wooden Baltic vessel. But after the boat sprung a leak and sank at its anchorage, the owners, Annie and Mick Gardner, replaced it with the larger steel boat everyone knows today.

The William Thornton who the floating bar is named after was born in the British Virgin Islands and is the man behind the design of the United States Capitol building.

13. The Rock Bar – Bali

brewood_rockbar1Perched 14 meters above the Indian Ocean, this open-top bar is literally served straight up on the rocks.

It’s a perfect place to sit and watch the sunset, sip cocktails and admire the view of the perfect Bali waves splashing against the rocks below. What makes it even more novel is the outdoor elevator which takes you down the cliff to the bar. Beware though, it only holds four so you might end up taking the stairs!

Live musicians play on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays so you can sit back and enjoy some tunes with a view. Located within the Ayana Resort & Spa in Jimbaran Bay, The Rock Bar will certainly leave a lasting impression and is Bali’s most chic sunset and after-dark destination.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

6 Amazing Luxury Villas You Can Rent

Maybe you’re rich and famous. Or maybe you just dream of being rich and famous. Or maybe, if you get together with a group of friends or family members you can stay at one of these luxurious villas where someone rich and famous has stayed before you. Famous by association? Take a look.

Villa Sylva on Corfu, Greece

Villa Sylva on Corfu

Villa Sylva on Corfu

Ever wonder about those fantastic villas you see in the movies? Well, this is one of them. You may remember it from “The Executioner” or “For Your Eyes Only.” For $3,962 – $8,150 a night, you too can pretend like you are James Bond. This 9-bedroom estate sits high above the Ionian Sea and offers incredible views from its amazing terraces. The 9 acres surrounding it have everything from beaches to well-tended gardens of bougainvillea, jasmine, and olive and cypress trees.

The main house sleeps 12 people and also has a large reception area and a dining area which connects to an outside dining patio. The guest house sits at a lower level looking out over the pool and can sleep 4 people. A second studio apartment can accommodate 2 more guests. You’ll also have a gym equipped with high quality Cybex equipment and a treadmill, a pool and large pool house. Your staff includes a cook, 2 helpers, 3 cleaning ladies, a property manager and gardener. The only thing you’ll need to do is order a cocktail. May I suggest a martini – shaken, not stirred?

Chateau de Villette near Paris, France

Chateau de Villette, Paris
Chateau de Villette, Paris

Wouldn’t it be nice to live like King Louis XIV for a few days? This splendid 17th century private chateau is located just 35 minutes outside of Paris and 15 minutes from Versailles. You may recognize it from the movie “The DaVinci Code.” On the main floor is a huge octagonal salon decorated in white and blue, a music salon, a library, an elegant dining room, a massive stone staircase, 2 small kitchens, plus the main kitchen, which alone boasts 4 separate rooms.

The chateau has an entirely separate wing just for parties or weddings. There are a total of 10 bedrooms in the main house, all with private bathrooms. In the west wing you’ll find an additional 5 bedrooms and baths. The grounds are an incredible 185 acres, complete with gardens, swimming pool, outdoor dining areas, tennis court, your own chapel, a guest house, horse stables and a greenhouse. The fee for this incredible estate is $11,675 a night. You’ll pay a little extra for the staff of 6 people, but when you’re living like a king, do you really mind?

Palmasola in Punta Mita, Mexico

Palmasola, Punta Mita, Mexico
Palmasola, Punta Mita, Mexico

When you arrive at this Mexican paradise, you’ll have a private chauffeur to transport you from the airport to your beachfront villa. The villa is located inside a secure, gated community of estates on the northern tip of the Bahia de Banderas. You’ll find 22,000 square feet of luxury awaiting you on a property of incomparable tropical beauty. The main house boasts pristine views of the turquoise bay, white beaches and the 500 palm trees scattered around the property. There are 9 bedrooms available for you in the main house, guest house, and garden apartment.

In the main house you’ll also find a large dining area that comfortably seats 14 guests. But why eat inside? You’re in Mexico and the outside dining is spectacular. You have 2 outside choices – dine next to the large pool or on the rooftop terrace closer to the stars. You’ll enjoy fabulous meals at this all-inclusive retreat. Near the pool, you’ll discover a family room with movies, board games and foosball; a gym with an elliptical trainer, treadmill and weights; a massage room; and a business center for your work related activities. The guests at this villa have access to golf at the Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course, tennis, kayaks, windsurfing equipment, snorkeling and many other activities. The resort is $13,000 – $20,000 per night and comes with an extensive staff of a concierge, property manager, 3 waiters, chef, 5 housekeepers and landscape and maintenance people. And, since drinks are also included in the all-inclusive price…Margarita, anyone?

Rio Chico near Ocho Rios, Jamaica

Rio Chico, Ocho Rios, Jamaica
Rio Chico, Ocho Rios, Jamaica

Would you like to stay someplace where diplomats and celebrities have vacationed? Then this is it. This spectacular villa has 8 bedrooms, each with a private bath, and can be yours for $61,555 – $136,000 a week, depending on the season. Twelve people can stay in the main house, while the cottage accommodates 4 more. You’ll have 14 acres all to yourself. Imagine colorful gardens to stroll through, 2 private beaches, tropical waterfalls and breathtaking views of the Caribbean Sea.

The main house has a living room, formal dining room, entertainment room and a library equipped with everything you need to conduct business away from home. If you are feeling the need to do more than swim in one of the 2 pools, there’s a sailboat, windsurfer and paddle boat for you to use, plus an on-site tennis court and unlimited golfing at nearby Sandals Golf & Country Club. Of course, you are not going to want to lift a finger while relaxing in this paradise, but no worries, you’ll have a private butler, housekeeper, gardeners, 24-hour security at the gatehouse and a chef to cook you anything your heart desires from simple to lavish seafood to juicy steaks. Are we there yet?

Villa Diodati near Lucca, Italy

Villa Diodati, Lucca, Italy
Villa Diodati, Lucca, Italy

In this ancient land of sensational villas, Villa Diodati stands on its own. With its classic lines of architecture, and over 7 acres of beautiful grounds, gardens, woods and even a small vineyard, it is in a class by itself. The villa can accommodate 22 people in its 11 air-conditioned bedrooms for $26,455 – $38,665 per week. When it’s not being rented the owner is often there and you can tell by how well it is maintained.

Beautiful antique furniture graces the rooms of the three floors of the villa. Downstairs you’ll find an incredible living room with a frescoed ceiling and French windows looking out over the garden. A large dining room with a fireplace is where you’ll enjoy any meal of your choice, accompanied by table service. There is also a billiard room, salon and the kitchen.

Outside relax by the pool or play a game of tennis on your private tennis court. Choose to dine alfresco on the patio, if you prefer. If work accompanies you on your trip, there is a separate out-building equipped with the things you’ll need to conduct your meetings. You’ll probably never want to leave this paradise, but if you do incredible Lucca is nearby and Florence with all its history is only 50 miles away.

Polpis Waterfront Estate in Nantucket

Polpis Estate, Nantucket, Massachusetts
Polpis Estate, Nantucket, Massachusetts

Nantucket is a Native American word meaning “faraway island.” You’ll feel like you’ve found a faraway paradise when you stay in this incredible, 7,000 square foot house. The estate sits on 10 acres on Polpis Harbor near Cape Cod. The main house has family room, dining room, den, living room, gourmet kitchen and 4 bedrooms, as well as a huge basement with a gym and everything you need to entertain – a home theatre, wine cellar, and billiard, foosball, ping pong and poker tables. On the property you’ll also find a 2,000 square foot guest house with a kitchenette, family room, bedroom and loft bedroom.

There is a boat house, with mooring, and a swim dock at the lake, and a pool with pool house and spa available for your use. This lovely property rents for $42,250 per week from June through October. Highlights around the area include great restaurants, beaches and hiking and biking trails. You’ll have a personal concierge to help you organize any event from a luxurious spa treatment to a Nantucket clambake. You’ll enjoy the shopping, history, many water-related activities and peace of this island.

The options for renting a luxurious private villa anyplace in the world, are endless. These are just a few for you to think about. Take a look at the many that are offered. Dream. Maybe even book one.

Merida, Yucatan

Some History

Modern Mérida was founded in 1542 by Spanish colonists who built their capital over the remains of an ancient (12th century) Mayan city. Since that time, Mérida has been the cultural center of the region.

In fact, recently Merida won the honor of being the “Cultural Capital of the American Continent” for the year 2000 in a competition among cities throughout North, Central, and South America. Here is Merida on the map:

Yucatan  map

Merida  map

What To Do First

If you arrive by bus, don’t get depressed by the first glimpse you get of Merida. The bus station is in Merida’s least attractive section of town.

As you exit the bus station doors, downtown is three blocks to the left, then four blocks to the right. If you arrive at night, though, don’t walk; for the reasons stated above, take a taxi downtown, which should cost you about 30 Pesos. Public transportation is inexpensive and reliable in Merida, except in the south side of the city, e.g. near the bus station.

When downtown, the first thing you should do is pick up a copy of the free local magazine called “Yucatan Today.” You can find copies in most hotels and travel agencies, and it’s the most up to date written guide to Merida available in English. You will need the street maps published there asap, because none of the guide books cover enough territory.

Key Attractions

Merida by night

Merida is, as you would guess, culturally rich. It is the home of the American continent’s oldest Cathedral, a variety of classical Spanish (and French!) architecture and urban design, several public and private universities, institutes and museums, and a population of approximately one million people.

The city is probably best known, though, as the point of entry for exploring the ancient Mayan world. Archeological zones such as the the pyramids at Chichén Itzá and Uxmal make popular day trips. Several subterranean rivers (“cenotes”) attract swimmers, scuba-divers, and naturalists. Some of these rivers enter intricate systems of caves which were used by the Maya for performing secret religious ceremonies (see rivers and caves).

National parks and the wild flamingo populations of nearby Celestún are popular day trips as well. Merida fits into the ruins travel circuit quite easily. Two daily buses travel back and forth between Merida and the ruins at Palenque. And for approximately US$20, you can travel by bus from Merida to the Mayan ruins in Belize and Guatemala.

Yucatan’s geography and tropical climate differ from the rest of México, more closely resembling that of Cuba or Florida. Mérida is situated nine meters above sea level. Twenty minutes outside of the city is the 18th century port of Progreso, where the Gulf of Mexico joins the Caribbean Sea. Very inexpensive buses leave Mérida every half-hour for the beach. Unlike heavily trafficked tourist areas such as Cancún, Progreso is a beach community enjoyed almost exclusively by native Yucatecans. The only months of the year that the beach is very busy are July and August, when the tradition here is for everyone to take the month off from work and spend it at the beach.

Nightlife in restaurants and bars along the beach’s “malecon” however, is lively throughout the year. There are even more remote and tranquil beaches than Progresso, such as in the nearby towns of Telchac and Santa Clara.

Eating Out

“Santa Ana” is the downtown neighborhood which leads into Paseo Montejo, the main avenue in the north. This is an excellent area to get very inexpensive traditional Yucatecan foods in outdoor market type restaurants.

Eladios is a very popular pub where beer is expensive, but the food is free. You are served a variety of excellent Yucatecan foods for as long as you continue drinking. There is live music, lively conversation, and lots of fun. There are rarely tourists in Eladios because it’s out of the zocalo zone and because they’re too busy to advertise.

Billy Pizza on Paseo Montejo has really good inexpensive thin crust pizzas with a loud rock-n-roll kind of atmosphere.

Café La Habana on the corner of Calle 62 and Calle 59 is a good place for coffee/expresso and desert, or for something more substantial, and it’s open 24 hours.

Restaurante Leo is maybe the best place for tacos in town.

Las Mil Tortas for “tortas” (Mexican sandwiches), the equivalent to TacoBell here. They may not be the best for your waistline, but they’re delicious and inexpensive.

For something more upscale, the best beef in town can be found at the Argentine, La Cabaña del Gaucho, or for seafood Soberanis. Inexpensive Italian food with quiet, romantic atmosphere: Luigi’s in colonia Itzimná.

Isla Mujeres: A Kinder, Gentler Cancun
Isla Mujeres, Mexico

I admit it, I hate Cancun. And believe me, it doesn’t take very long for even the most astute drinker and shopper to be disgusted by Cancun’s malls, tourist traps, and general atmosphere of idiocy and deteriorating brain cells. Why not slightly increase your IQ and hop on a nearby ferry to Isla Mujeres? While I can’t promise a significant decrease in deteriorating brain cells, I can promise you a more relaxed vacation, AND you’re also 20% less likely to be injured by an out of control taxi!










View from the ruins



View from the Mayan ruins



Just a half hour journey through the Caribbean’s blue waters lands you on this tiny tourist island. You won’t be charting new territory and you’ll still be annoyed by vendors and guys promising “official guide services,” but at least there are no malls and the views are stunning and the water’s warm. Basically, Isla Mujeres is much more contained, relaxed, and colorful than anywhere in Cancun. It’s also very small, about three and a half miles long, and always less, much less, than half a mile wide. The name, Isla Mujeres, means “island of women,” and refers to the island’s ancient Mayan ruins of a fertility temple, which contained hundreds of clay figures of women. You can still visit what is left of these ruins, encountered by explorers traveling with Cordoba in 1519.

When you arrive from the mainland, you’ll disembark at the main boat dock, surrounded on both sides by beach, sunshine, and rich scenery. You’ll find the fishing lanchas and their nets scattered on the sand here, painted bright colors and appropriately scratched and worn from use. The streets around the center are busy with golf carts, scooters, and taxis, any of which are almost too easy to hire. In the middle of town the streets become cobbled and closed to all street traffic. This is where you can buy a tropical drink “to go” and wander among the sidewalk cafes and restaurants, thinking ahead to your next meal.

The days here offer many worthwhile activities: snorkeling and diving, nature excursions to local national parks, sunning and swimming at the beaches, or even a self-guided tour of the island by scooter. Ideally, you should plan to spend two nights and three full days on the island. This will give you enough time to really know and enjoy Isla Mujeres.

The itinerary I used to explore the island included a snorkeling trip on day one, a tour to Isla Contoy on the second day, and on the third day a scooter trip to explore the ruins and sites of the rest of the island. It is very easy to spend more or less time here, so go with the flow and enjoy whatever amount of time you have here.

How to Get There
From Cancun’s main bus terminal, a taxi to Puerto Juarez (where you catch the passenger ferry) should cost you about 30 pesos. From here, you must make a choice between taking the fast public ferry (35 pesos one-way) or hiring a private boat to take you to the island. If you have a car, go to Punta Sam, 2 miles north of Puerto Juarez, and take one of six daily car ferry departures (check locally for times).

If you take the passenger ferry, be sure to head upstairs to the outside area and sit on the steps on the front of the boat. You’ll be blown away (literally) but the sensation of gliding over perfectly blue water like a bird is excellent, especially for sunset. The ferry runs about once every 30 minutes, but sometimes more frequently during peak hours. Check locally for when the last ferry will run so you don’t get stuck on one side or the other.

If it’s only the start of your day however, I would recommend hiring one of the many jovial, friendly local boatmen to take you across. It’s more expensive of course, but they’ll take you exactly where you want to go on the island and you can snorkel (equipment provided), sun, and relax your way across the ocean. This is the ideal introduction to Isla Mujeres, as you’ll probably want to snorkel these reefs anyway.

Depending on the number of people in your group, the price decreases significantly. For two people, it was $30 each for the crossing, but with more people the price will decrease exponentially. You do the math. The trip includes visits to three different reefs to snorkel (deep ones available too for all of you free divers), local information, and the freedom to decide where and how long to stay or go, finally ending up on the island. The first two reefs are shallow ones, with lots of schools of reef fish, barracuda, corals, and your odd statue of the Virgin Mary. The third reef, if you request it, is called Machones. Here you can snorkel down to 40-50 feet and check out the eerie submerged statue of The Cross. This is fun as it irritates the scuba divers by sinking to their level without the benefit of a tank of air.

Tourist agencies on Isla Mujeres charge about the same for a snorkeling trip ($25 and up), but you won’t be alone, and the captain probably won’t listen to your requests!










Perico



Perico



If you decide to go for a private boat, make sure you discuss all of these arrangements (three different reefs, time limit, equipment, drop-off point) with the captain first, and make clear the full price before boarding. Don’t leave anything up to chance because you might be disappointed later. Also, if you can, look for a short, smiling Mexican man named Andres (or “Perico” locally) with a parrot tattooed on his shoulder. He’s a great captain, with a lot of character and energy. He even took us to Isla Mujeres so we could buy beers and ice for his cooler before we went snorkeling! And he was open to any other crazy suggestions or ideas we had about the area. A highly recommended guide.

After you’ve finished snorkeling, having enjoyed the sun and sea, you’ll probably be very hungry. No problem! We were fortunate enough to have our captain, Perico, offer to cook dinner (or lunch) for us for an additional 100 pesos. This was without a doubt the best bargain in Mexico! We sat on the beach with cold beers, and waited patiently while watching the big fireball of a sun set, waves lapping at our feet. In only moments, we were served a huge slab of fresh fish right from the ocean, BBQed to perfection and large enough to serve a family of 12. With it came tortillas, salad, rice, and various salsitas. And man, was it delicious! I’m pretty sure that most captains, not just ours, will offer this meal service, and I can’t recommend it enough.

After dinner, we were dropped off near the center of town, and started looking for a place to stay.

Where to Stay
Depending on your budget and the time of year (April-November is lower season) you won’t have too much trouble finding a good, cheap place to stay.

The least expensive place to lay your head (outside of setting up a tent) is at the POC-NA Budget Hostel, where $6 or less will buy you a bed (with no bedding) in a dorm room, with locker for your stuff (bring your own lock). This place is definitely the backpacker hangout. Find your fellow travelers here.










Killer sunsets



Killer sunsets



Another good option is the hotel on the courtyard directly across the island from the boat dock (5min) called Hotel Perla del Caribe ($30 each night/double) where you can sneak onto the roof to watch killer sunsets in peace. Friendly reception, and a pool in high season. Go for the top floor and be prepared to hear the constant lulls and crashes of ocean waves. Highly recommended.

Also, there are other recommended hotels, all within the very small central hotel district. Some of these are Hotel Caribe Maya (Calle Medero 9), Hotel El Caracol (near disco, Matamoros 5), Hotel Marcianito (Abasolo 10), Hotel Isleño (Madero 8). Use your judgment and ask to see the room first to check for mosquito netting, amenities, etc before accepting it. The rooms in these hotel range from $16-35 a night for two people.

Where to Eat
Just like anywhere else in Mexico, the most economical option for food is with the local comedores or cocinas economicas serving tacos and tortas from carts near the main plaza. Cheap, good, and local, these places will get you closer to the Mexican way of life and allow you to interact and practice your Spanish with isleños.

If you’d rather sit down in a restaurant, you have a whole street worth of choices. Most have their menu and prices on display for you to peruse before sitting down, so do one lap of the options, narrow down your preferences and just choose one. There are so many tourist restaurants here, that it’s hard to recommend one over another. They may have different themes, music, and menus, but somehow they’re still all the same. If you walk towards the end of the main street to the north, you’ll find some more restaurants where the locals go to eat. Arriba, Chen Huayo, and Lomita are all also excellent Mexican restaurants.

Some other recommendations include Café Cito for coffee, Café El Nopalito and Pizza Rolandi for breakfast, La Langosta and Cielito Lindy for seafood and view, and La Peña for happy hour.

There is also an excellent bar right on the beach, surrounded by swings and hammocks, which has a daily happy hour and great music and atmosphere. It’s the only bar right on the beach, and popular with just about everybody who comes to Isla Mujeres. Don’t worry, you’ll find it. Recommended.

What to Do
Beaches:
The beach closest to the dock on the north side of the island, Playa Norte, is the most popular and lively of the tourist beaches, but there are some other beaches, Playa Lancheros and Playa Indios further away along the west side of the island heading down towards Garrafon National Park. You can reach these easily by rental bike, scooter, taxi ($2) or car. Public buses are unpredictable. Take lots of sunscreen!

Snorkeling:
I already mentioned a great snorkeling trip in the “HOW TO GET THERE” section of this article, which you may chose to do on your way to the island from the mainland. If you decide to take a snorkeling trip from one of the many operators or captains on the island however, just be sure of exactly what you are getting for your money. I can’t recommend one over another, but be advised that sometimes the boats are overcrowded and disorganized. Use your head and shop around to get exactly what you want. A private boat is still your best option if you get 6 or more people together.

Diving:
There are some well-known dive sites on the reefs of the island, but diving here is not cheap ($55-$100 for one or two tanks), and if you’re planning on diving somewhere in Mexico, do it on the island of Cozumel rather than here. If you have the extra cash though, try diving Sleeping Shark Cave, a cave featured in National Geographic magazine, where numerous sharks “sleep” due to a lack of oxygen in the water. There are also many good reefs, including Machones, Cuevones and La Bandera.

Day Tripping around the island:
Bikes, scooters, taxis and cars are available for rent from just about everybody, or if you like, you can walk to the far end of the island in about two and a half hours. Check prices and hours of all the competing rental agencies the night before you decide to go on a day trip around the island. We used Rentadora GOMAR II, on Madero 65. Prices should be around $25-$35 for scooters for a full day, $8-$12 for bikes, and more for cars depending on the equipment and deposit policy. Make sure your tank is full, you know who to call if you break down, and that your tires have enough air.

An early start will give you the most relaxed time tooling around. While you fill out your paperwork (you’ll need a valid driver’s license) why not have a fresh squeezed glass of orange juice from the carts on every corner? A good start to what will be a long day of exploration.

The rental agency will hopefully give you a map pointing out all of the local attractions, and since the island is so tiny, you’ll have plenty of time to do everything there is to do if you want to.

Here’s a suggested Itinerary for one full day:
First ride out of town and around the lagoon Makax to see dolphins, sharks, and turtles in various stages of captivity. The dolphins can be found at the end of the lagoon road at “The Dolphin Experience” signs. They may be “hired” to swim with you for only $100 for 15 minutes, (whooo…what a bargain!) Further back along the same road, there are some bars and restaurants that have nurse sharks trapped in little water pens. It’s pretty depressing, but if you’ve never seen these beautiful creatures up close, go take a look with a grain of salt for the circumstances.










Turtle sanctuary



Turtle sanctuary



By far the most impressive and spirit lifting organization along the lagoon is the Turtle Sanctuary. For a small fee (25 pesos), you have access to a nice little aquarium with species on display from around the world. There is also an enclosure containing hundreds of young baby turtles trying to grow, who will someday be released into the wild. Outside of the aquarium, there are large ocean water pens where you can see some of the biggest and oldest turtles around, some aging over 100 years and measuring 6-8 feet across! There are naturalists and turtle experts wandering around ready to answer any questions or give you a free impromptu tour. Skip the dolphins and sharks and support this organization instead.

After you cruise around and see what there is to see around the Laguna Makax, just take the only other road left to take and head straight past the tourist-hungry Garrafon National Park. Highly touted as wonderful snorkeling, the creatures you’re most likely to see here are probably wearing snorkels too. Overpriced and over-rated, Garrafon is beautiful for a photo stop right outside the entrance ($10 per person entry fee), and to marvel at just how many daytrippers from Cancun can fit into such a small area. If you still want to pay the entrance and check it out, make sure you go as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Open from 8am-evening.

You’ll pass many restaurants, pueblitos and tienditas on your way to the southern tip of the island, where you’ll find what remains of the Mayan ruins which gave Isla Mujeres its name. Park your scooter, buy a cold coconut to quench your thirst, and hike down to the temple dedicated to the goddess of fertility and the moon.


Templo Ixchel isn’t what it used to be, thanks to hurricanes, looting, and tourism, but the views from this windy southern point are astonishing. There is a little stairway that leads down and around to some rocks which you can climb, but be careful, as most people will think you’re crazy for climbing them.

After you’ve had your fill of the local history and information from the guides at the ruins, it’s time to head back towards the other end of the island. This road runs right along the edge of the turbid, dangerous ocean side of Isla Mujeres. Sharp craggy rocks and high seas beckon a blustery exhilarating stop to watch the Caribbean magic. Just pull over anywhere and sit down and enjoy the sea air and surf for a few moments.










Conch shell house



Conch shell house



Along this road you’ll also see one of the most remarkable architectural projects in the area: a house in the shape of a conch shell. You can’t miss it, and it’s definitely worth a photo stop.

When you’re done with these main attractions, you’ll probably have time to do them all again before bringing the rental back to town. It really is a tiny island, so take your time with everything and “go slow.”

Day Trip to Isla Contoy
Your other free day should definitely be spent on a day trip to the nearby national park and bird sanctuary on Isla Contoy. Home to over 100 species of birds, Isla Contoy is populated with colonies of pelicans and frigate birds, and occasionally even flamingoes. Established by the Mexican government in 1961 as a National Park, the island is less than four miles long and 40 feet wide at it’s most narrow point. A tall observatory, where you can watch the island’s natural life unfold before you, is easily climbable. Happily, you will only be joined by fellow travelers from Isla Mujeres, as all other trips from Cancun or other ports have been suspended to preserve the animal and plant life of the sanctuary.

The friendly park rangers (the only humans permitted to live here permanently) are ready to point you in the right direction or tell you all about the many species of flora and fauna. There is also a small museum discussing the animal life and geology of the island. Use the handy map to explore the island’s pristine beaches, rocks, lagoon, reefs, and nature trails on your own. In the summer, turtles come to lay their eggs on the beaches here, so be sure to ask if they are around. Don’t forget the sunscreen and mosquito repellent, as both the sun and the insects can be vicious here.










Island feast



Lunch feast, Isla Contoy



This trip takes most of a full day and costs 350 pesos per person. The price includes coffee and fruit in the office before you depart, the opportunity to snorkel several different reefs with a local guide, snorkel equipment, admission to the national park, fishing, and an absolutely exquisite fresh fish BBQ lunch, complete with guacamole, salad, rice, sodas and beers.

All in all, it’s an excellent deal for a day’s worth of entertainment and sightseeing.

The main Isla Contoy office is located on Madero in the center of town across from the La Reina Bakery, and all of the boats depart from the end of this street every morning around 9am. You can buy your tickets the night before, or go early in the morning to arrange the tour. Enjoy!

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