Friday, March 12, 2010

9 of the Most Scenic Drives in Europe

There’s nothing more pleasant than to experience the beauty of any country while driving among valleys, mountains, along rivers and coast lines. I can name at least four super drives along the Carpathians and the rivers which slice through them. Unfortunately, I had to choose only 9 of the most beautiful roads in Europe

1 – The Grossglockner High Alpine Road, Austria

the-grossglockner-high-alpine-roadThis incredible road dances on Austria’s highest mountain, connecting the state of Salzburg with the state of Carinthia. There are numerous hairpin curves on the 48 km road and an incredible panoramic view of the Pasterzen Glacier. The road is open only during the summer (usually from late April until end of October) and it’s a toll road. Since the road runs through a national park, last admission is 45 min before the park closes (between 7:30 p.m. and 9 p.m., depending on the month). If you decide to stop for a while, there are hiking and nature trails for every level of fitness.

2 – Shipka Pass, Bulgaria

shipka-pass-bulgariaThe drive starts in Veliko Tamovo, which is a charming medieval town. Head south towards Dryanovo Monastery passing through Shipka pass. It’s located at 1,300 m on the Stara Planina Mountain. The views are magnificent and you’ll also pass through the Valley of Roses (most of the rose extract used to make perfumes comes from here).

3 – Loire Valley, France

loire-valleyOne of the loveliest (yet not spectacular) drives in France is along Loire Valley, between Amboise and Blois (on either side of the river). You can continue all the way to Chenonceau.

4 – The Dordogne, France

the-dordogne-franceThe scenic drive starts in Sarlat-la-Canéda, a charming medieval town. You’ll be driving along Vézère River, a tributary of the Dordogne. Follow D704 towards Montignac and then the winding D706 towards San-Lyon-sur-Vézère. You’ll be passing through incredible France countryside and along the way there are farms where you can stop and taste the authentic French cuisine.

5 – Crete Island (Chania to Palaeohora) , Greece

creteThe scenic drive starts in the city of Chania and goes past Samaria. You’ll be driving on a mountain road dotted with charming Greek villages and old churches. After 4 hours you’ll reach the beautiful pink beaches.

6 – Ioannina to Meteora, Greece

meteoraOne of the most beautiful drives in mainland Greece is between Ioannina and Meteora. The road climbs into the mountains, over a high pass (which is closed usually during winter) and then going slowly down into the region of Thessaly, where the stunning monasteries are located.

7 – Amalfi Coast, Italy

amalfi-coast-italyIf the idea of a scenic drive is something close to a heart attack, then Amalfi Coast is exactly what you need. The cliff on one side, the Mediterranean on the other and a road full of curves! Lovely drive but not for those used to driving on straight highways. You’ll be passing expensive resorts, colorful villages and Greek ruins. Don’t forget to stop for a cheap fish dish in one of the picturesque villages.
>>more information about Driving in Italy

8 – Moyenne Corniche: Monaco

monacoIf you need to get from Monaco to Nice, avoid the boring autoroute and choose one of the scenic routes: Basse, Moyenne (pictured) or Grande Corniche. Moyenne Corniche follows the mountains above the coast, offering some of the best views of the Riviera. You are also passing by old towns and very interesting buildings.

9 – Transfagarasan, Romania

transfagarasan2Initially built as a military road, Transfagarasan (or DN7C) is the highest and most beautiful paved road in Romania. It runs in the tallest section of the Carpathians, between Moldoveanu – the highest peak- and Negoiu – second highest, connecting Transylvania to Wallachia (Muntenia). It climbs to over 2000 meters altitude and the most spectacular part is to the north. Transfagarasan has more viaducts and tunnels than any other road in Romania. The road also offers access to Balea Lake and Balea Waterfall. On the southern part of the road, Poienari Fortress (the residence of Vlad Dracul) is the most important landmark.

The road is usually closed during winter and spring (late October to early June) due to snow. Even during summer the average speed is 40 km per hour due to the topography.

A Visit to Dracula’s Tomb
Snagov, Romania

Romania is a beautiful country. I had plenty of time
to admire it since it takes forever to get anywhere in
that country. In the land of Dracula it’s not vampires
that one should dread but the slow transportation
system. Communism’s lazy hand still lingers when it comes to public transportation. In much
poorer countries like Egypt you can always get
something from bus, minivan, camel, to someone’s wife
to get you just about anywhere. Sure, they’ll try to
rip you off but at least you can get somewhere.





Vlad  Tepes



Vlad Tepes



I wanted to go just a lousy 38 kilometers from
Bucharest to see the tomb of Dracula (Vlad Tepes -
fifteenth ruler of Romania [Prince of Wallachia to be
exact], impaled a lot people, played by Gary Oldman in
Bram Stoker’s Dracula wearing ridiculous red armor;
yeah, that guy). Only buses go there and only every two
or three hours. When we finally got out there it was late
afternoon. Our guidebook neglected to mention that the
tomb and bus stop are a few kilometers apart. We had
to walk two kilometers with our heavy backpacks to get to the
lake on which the monastery where Vlad is buried is
located. I was in my usual spirits at times like this
(i.e. bitching up a storm about lousy Romanian public
transportation and the laziness of travel book writers
who probably never go anywhere that they write about
but just read encyclopedias and make up the rest of
the stuff).

The monastery is on an island in the middle of the
lake. I had to rent a boat to get there. Because it
was a Monday, the boat rental place was closed and I had
to pay inflated prices (about $15 as opposed to the
usual $3) to rent one. What I got was a disgrace to
nautical engineering. Our boat was more of a plastic
bathtub than boat. At least we had oars and not planks
of wood as they originally planned to give us.

I let my long-term travel companion, Dee, handle the
oars of our little rowboat bathtub first as she has
stronger arms than me (a fact she rarely ever brings
up). I took over after we were out of sight of shore
and the possible ridicule that might have followed.
After going around in three circles, we got back on track
to the island.

On the island we met what we thought was a priest. He
greeted us warmly with the grace of God then asked us
for $6 for a photo charge. Since we had already taken
pictures of the outside before he arrived we politely
declined.



The  monastery



The monastery



Our religious faith was further stretched when the
priest then asked for 10 Euros to enter the monastery.
After making sure he meant 10 European dollars and not
10 European people, I took a good look at the
monastery to see if it were worth such a price. Only
slightly larger than a breadbox with an inside covered
in scaffolding, I decided that was a wee bit too high
of price.

The priest understood our spiritual plight and told us
in the most polite way to get off the island. He had
some flunky who spoke a little english but all he did
was just laugh at us like one of those villain
sidekicks that aren’t too bright and just laugh at
what their bosses say even if it isn’t funny.

Taking our bathtub back into the water turned into a
comedy of errors. I was so angry at the priest and the
cackling village idiot, I couldn’t control that stupid
bathtub of a boat we were in. We went around and
around in circles a few times as Dee traded insults
with the flunky and the priest. I got so pissed off
that I stood up in the boat and told them to engage in
Biblical relations with themselves. A wicked enraged
thought passed quickly through my mind to moon the
pair but I realized such an action probably would have
swamped the boat and I’d have rather drown than be
rescued by those jerks.

I eventually got us away. Overall the experience was a
Pyrrhic Victory. The bastards didn’t get any money
from us and we got our pictures but we didn’t see the
tomb (which is just a slab of rock anyhow). They, in
turn, got to laugh at something other than their sad
existence. So we were both winners and losers in this
sad affair (I still relish the idea of slipping back
to that island one day and burning down their houses).

The irony of the situation is that they tried to rip
us off in seeing the tomb of a man who was known for
his fierce belief in honesty. With long pointy sticks,
Vlad Tepes used to treat the prostrate glands of
unfair merchants that cheated and overcharged their
customers. Had Vlad been around today, that so-called
priest and his flunky would be getting acquainted to
splinters in the most embarrassing of places.

Impalement was an awful way to die in a time when
there were many awful ways to die but dammit I can’t
think of nicer bunch of bastards who deserve it more.

The rest of my time in Romania wasn’t as bad. Mainly
Romanians are quite friendly, honest, and helpful, but
it seems that Vlad didn’t impale all the bad apples
when he had the chance.

Once again, the writers, editors, and community at BootsnAll have collected up our best recommendations for destinations we think are worth considering for any independent traveler. Lists like this seem to be everywhere these days, which is another reason we try to make ours special by highlighting a mix of popular places along with places that aren’t on everyone’s radar just yet.

Before we get to 2010’s list, if you haven’t been following along and want to look back at the places we’ve listed in prior years, here’s your chance:

Ready for 2010 now? Alright, here we go…

10 – Fukuoka, Japan

Canal City complex in Fukuoka
Canal City complex in Fukuoka

Fun to say? Sure. But on top of that Fukuoka is a highly recommended destination for anyone wanting to see what Japan is like outside of its insanely huge and crowded capital of Tokyo.

In spite of having a population of 1.5 million, Fukuoka is compact enough to see on foot, but they’ve also got a clean and efficient subway system for those with a bit less energy. For great views of this modern city you can head to the 234-meter Fukuoka Tower or the giant Sky Dream Ferris Wheel for a 20-minute ride. For something uniquely Japanese you can go to Robosquare, where you can watch or participate in demonstrations of personal robots for free.

The city also has its famous Canal City shopping complex, where you can get an up-close look at the Japanese retail obsession, complete with wacky one-of-a-kind souvenir items and all manners of trendy fashions. And if the sun is out you can head over to Mitoma Beach to see how the locals cool off and even surf when the waves are good. The notable local cuisine is a variety of pork-flavored ramen noodles that are found pretty much everywhere.

Day trips from Fukuoka include Hiroshima, Mt. Asa (an active volcano) and Beppu, a resort town with hot springs, monkeys, and themed pools termed “The Hells.”

You can fly directly into Fukuoka from most major cities in Asia and all over Japan, or you can take a 5-hour train ride from Tokyo if you are combining the two.

9 – Durban, South Africa

Durban from above
Durban from above

This is a very special year for South Africa, and for Africa as a whole. In June, the 19th World Cup, the largest and most-watched event in sport, descends on South Africa. Never before has a World Cup, or any event of this size, been held anywhere on the continent, and our pick of the ten cities hosting the Cup is Durban.

No stranger to visitors, Durban is the busiest port city in Africa, and also one of the most tourist friendly. The Golden Mile, Durban’s famous stretch of beach, is a must-see for the traveler who wants more out of their African vacation than just Big Five wildlife tours. Surfing is popular here, and though South Africa is famous for its sharks, netting protects the Golden Mile’s beach from the marine predators. If you want a safer look at the sharks that are swimming just beyond the nets, the uShaka Marine World aquarium has the world’s largest shark tank.

There’s no doubt that Durban (and South Africa overall) has its problems, with crime rates that might scare off some tourists, but it also has so much to offer to the educated traveler. Add in the world’s biggest international party, the World Cup, and you have a must-see destination for 2010.

There aren’t many international flights straight into Durban, and most travelers will have to enter South Africa through the main hub, Johannesburg. There are several small carriers like Mango and Kulula that run daily domestic flights to Durban from all the other major cities in South Africa.

8 – Iceland

Glacier spotting in Iceland
Glacier spotting in Iceland

By now most people are aware of Iceland’s financial mini-collapse, and as awful as that may be for many of its citizens, the silver lining is being enjoyed by budget-oriented travelers who can suddenly afford a visit. Long described as stunning, unique, and jaw-droppingly expensive, it seems that prices are actually now in line with other European countries so that third part is on hold, at least for a while.

You’ll fly in near Reykjavik and almost everyone enjoys spending the first day or so checking out the small and charming capital, but Iceland is similar to New Zealand in that the largest city is perhaps the least spectacular thing about the place.

One popular strategy is to rent a car for a week or so and trace the Route 1 – Ring Road around the island in either direction. Along the way you’ll have plenty of opportunities to take in glaciers, geysers, waterfalls, national parks, lakes, volcanic craters, and fjords along with a bit of wildlife.

Flights from either North America or Europe are reasonable, thanks to Iceland Air and their program that allows free Transatlantic stop-overs for those not satisfied with making Iceland their only destination. And the country’s most famous single attraction – the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa – is an easy stop near the airport.

7 – Sighisoara, Romania

Some well preserved architecture in Sighisoara
Some well preserved architecture in Sighisoara

Independent travelers wanting to visit Central-Eastern Europe typically start with Budapest, Prague, or Budapest and hardly ever go deeper than that. But those looking to explore some of the jewels of the region should definitely consider Sighisoara.

The Romanian town of Sighisoara, located deep in Transylvania, on Tarnava River, has preserved the features of a small medieval fortified city in a remarkable way. The landmark of this picturesque town, which has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, is the Clock Tower, a 64-meter tower built in 1556, currently home to the Museum of History (and from the top balcony offering the best views of citadel and surrounding areas).

Near the end of July each year the tiny cobblestone streets of the citadel are flooded with visitors from all over the world coming here for the Medieval Festival. English, French and German are useful here, regardless of the time of the year when you visit, although if you venture into the new parts of the town, it’s useful to know at least some Romanian phrases.

In addition to the well-preserved medieval buildings, Sighisoara is also famous for being the (alleged) birth town of Vlad Dracul (a.k.a. Dracula). The house where he was born still exists and is located close to the Clock Tower (currently it’s a restaurant).

You can get to Sighisoara by train from any major Romanian city (Bucharest, Cluj Napoca, Brasov, Sibiu, etc.) and there are direct train connections from Budapest, Vienna and Prague as well.

6 – Philippines

Shrine off White Beach in Boracay
Shrine off White Beach in Boracay

As most of the world’s budget travelers seem to be descending on the mainland part of Southeast Asia, those looking to get off the well-trodden tourist trail will be heading to the Philippines. With over 7,000 islands in the archipelago, it makes perfect sense that you’ve got a lot of options when it comes to scenery and activities.

There’s world-class diving and snorkeling available, at prices that are significantly lower than in most of the rest of the world. Whitewater rafting is also big in the country, but for those who are more interested in just relaxing you’ve got a choice of excellent beaches of every variety, with Boracay Beach being the most famous internationally.

The culture is a mix of a variety of indigenous peoples along with some notable Spanish influences and even some American thrown in. The locals have a reputation as some of the friendliest towards outsiders in the world, and nearly everyone speaks at least some English so if you can read this article then there will be no language barrier to worry about. Prices for almost everything are quite low, so your travel fund goes a long way here and might allow you much more luxury than you are used to.

Most visitors will fly into Manila, which is certainly worth a look on its own, but another option is the large and modern seaport of Cebu, which seems to be gaining on the capital as a favorite entry point for travelers.

5 – Split, Croatia

The main harbor in Split
The main harbor in Split

It seems like everyone was talking about Croatia a few years ago so this is yet another spot where you certainly won’t be the only tourist in town. Still, it’s worth considering a visit for a great number of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that the country continues to be more affordable than most of its neighbors, and loaded with interesting things to see and do as well.

Those who want to get past Croatia’s capital city of Zagreb will usually head to Dubrovnik, but many people complain that it has gotten too touristy in the past few years in the same way that Prague seems to be bursting at the seams with gift shops. But Split isn’t yet suffering from that syndrome, so there’s still time to check out all the Roman ruins and palaces and unique culture without feeling like you are part of one big tour group.

Split is yet another city that has a well-preserved and easily walkable historic city center, so you’ll be able to take in all the cathedrals, temples, museums, and markets your heart desires. But of course you’ve got lovely beaches with opportunities to do water sports if you’ve got the energy, plus abundant ferries to nearby Adriatic islands for something more exclusive.

If you shop around you might want to look for a cheap flight into Zagreb and then take a train or bus to Split, but there are plenty of flights directly into Split itself so that’s worth a try, especially if you’ll be coming from nearby.

4 – British Columbia, Canada

Emerald Lake, British Columbia
Emerald Lake, British Columbia

British Columbia is going to be in the news in a really intense way in a month or so when the Olympics descend upon Vancouver. If past Olympics coverage is anything to go by, they should do a pretty good job of showing off the natural beauty of the region – but just in case you’re not glued to the TV, we wanted to make sure you still had BC on your tourism radar.

City lovers will find plenty to get excited about in Vancouver, but we would suggest British Columbia is more about wilderness. Two big mountain ranges, thick forests, and an intricate network of islands off the coast – some of which are extremely remote – are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg when it comes to BC’s great outdoors.

And even though exploring the far reaches of Northern British Columbia isn’t exactly practical during the height of winter, by all means get excited about a BC trip during the 2010 Olympics and plan your own trip for the summer of 2010. BootsnAll writer Jessica Spiegel did a road trip through BC in August 2009, and highlighted “5 reasons to visit British Columbia” in a recent article.

Most visitors will want to fly into Vancouver, but flights to Seattle might be cheaper and it’s only a few hours away if you are doing the road trip thing anyway.

3 – Scotland

Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness
Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness

The majority of travelers coming to Britain don’t ever leave the confines of London, and this is a great shame, because just a short flight or train ride north is Scotland, land of whisky, bagpipes and golf.

Clichés aside, there are few travel destinations that offer so much to so many different kinds of travelers. Whether your idea of the perfect vacation is playing golf on world-famous courses like Turnberry or St. Andrews, or backpacking through some of the most rugged trails in Europe, you will find it here.

Edinburgh is by far the most popular tourist city, and home to one of Britain’s most visited attractions, Edinburgh Castle. For the more party-minded, Glasgow has a fantastic bar and live music scene, and has become one of the hotspots of British rock in the last decade. But it’s outside of the cities that you find the real heart of Scotland, especially up north in the famed Highlands.

Anyone who loves the outdoors (and doesn’t mind a bit of rain on their back) would be hard-pressed to find a better definition of heaven, with beautiful landscapes dotted with the ruins of medieval castles. And even farther up the map, the Orkney Islands offer a totally unique blend of Scottish and Norse culture and some of the best whale and wildlife watching in northern Europe. Scotland is definitely rugged, and the winters are not for the meek, but those who brave the chance of rain get back more than they ever expected.

Though you can get flights straight to Edinburgh from several cities in Europe, most people get their international flight to London Heathrow, then add a domestic leg on one of the budget airlines to Edinburgh or Glasgow. If you want to get out of the city and into the Highlands fast, fly from London straight to Inverness, capital of the Highlands and home of world famous Loch Ness.

2 – Pucón, Chile

Pucón and the Villarica Volcano
Pucón and the Villarica Volcano

For 2009 we recommended Bariloche, Argentina, and this year we are going with what is more or less considered the Chilean version of that, at least in that it’s known as the adventure capital of the country and is popular all year round.

Located in the Lake District on Lago Villarica, the entire area is gorgeous as the backdrop often includes the stunning and perpetually snowcapped Villarica Volcano. You can take a non-technical guided hike up the volcano and even visit the lava crater if that appeals to you. During winter the area is a major center for skiing and snowboarding, and there are plenty of natural hot springs to visit as well.

During warmer months it might take less space to list the things that aren’t available, but just to hit some highlights you’ve got easy access to hiking, white-water rafting, canopy tours, horseback riding, cycling, golf, and fishing. And since the place is a mecca for international backpackers as well as those from the region, it’s no surprise that there is active nightlife that can take on almost any form. Well-heeled Chileans also use the area as a summer resort, so there’s more going on than just catering to backpacker types.

Getting there can be a bit tricky, since the airport is only open during warm months (December through February), though affordable overnight buses from Santiago operate all year round.

1 – New Zealand

Queenstown, South Island
Queenstown, South Island

Picking New Zealand for a list of great destinations for independent travelers is a bit like picking the Beatles for a list of great British bands, so here it is. If you haven’t yet had the privilege to visit this country you are probably already sick of hearing people rave about it, but still, the visit itself is likely to be so different from anywhere else you’ve been that it’s hard to stay quiet about it.

First off, Auckland is a pleasant enough city, but don’t waste more than a day or two at the beginning and/or end of your trip in the city, since all the magic is elsewhere. Train service in New Zealand is limited and slow, so most people either get around on one of the backpacker bus companies, or rent a vehicle of some kind for a DIY tour. Cars and motorbikes are available, but the true classic New Zealand adventure is done by renting a campervan (motor home) and staying in the cheap holiday parks (camp grounds) all over both islands that also serve the social function of hostels everywhere else.

Auckland is on the North Island, which is also home to many popular sights and attractions, but nearly everyone agrees that the South Island is the more special of the two, so don’t even think about limiting your trip to just one or the other. Queenstown on the South Island is gorgeous and loaded with things to do all year round, so make sure you don’t leave that one off your itinerary if it can be helped.

Flights to Auckland tend to be the cheapest and easiest to find, though if you are in the region already you might head straight for the pleasant city of Christchurch on the South Island instead.