Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Everybody Makes a Mistake – Barcelona, Spain

Everybody Makes A Mistake
Barcelona, Spain

“Una penny,” she said with a smile and stuck a carnation into my shirt, “Fiesta, penny, you, you, you pay, no him.” She took an extra look into my wallet as I tried to show her that I did not have any more small change but only large Euro notes.

“No, fiesta, one penny, tradisiónal,” she continued saying, looking from me to my wallet, to my newly-wedded husband standing by my side trying to fend off another middle-aged woman armed with carnations.

“No, nothing, sorry,” I said and smiled politely. After all, it does not cost much to be courteous. We were visitors in her country. After another twenty seconds of smiling and shaking my head, she finally said, “No Espanyól?” and walked away.

How silly, I thought charitably. I am obviously Chinese. I have a backpack. I am walking down the street with my English husband holding a map. Of course, no Espanyól! I chuckled to myself and marvelled at the innocence and charm of the locals. Then I jokingly said out loud, “Well, I’d better check that my money’s still in my wallet.”

Yes, yes, you saw it coming. My husband saw it coming too. We always see it coming when we are standing outside the situation of a very slick “distract and collect” tactic, well practised and executed.

I am a seasoned traveller. I have navigated my way through crowded markets in Hong Kong, Jakarta and Bangkok, and I have come out with my wallet intact. I do not even bother with a money belt. I am street-wise and careful.

I know how to hold a backpack to avoid it being snatched by thieves on motorbikes – grip tight under your arm. I even know I have to make sure my bags are zipped or held shut and that I should never talk to strangers, much less show them I have only bills in twenty-Euro denomination. But in that split second of courtesy and relaxation, my credibility was shattered.

My reactions were surprise, shocked realisation, fury – at myself for being silly, at the women for being thieves, at my husband for not defending my money with his life, and at the entire tourist industry for creating a situation where well-intentioned tourists are taken – and sheer embarrassment. There I was, a globetrotter, taken for one penny by a woman old enough to be my mother. I was utterly gutted at my stupidity. With one flick of the practised wrist and feather light finger, I was reduced to the rank of “dumb tourist.”

I could claim disillusionment as well. Here I was, ready to spend money, pre-disposed to think wonderful things of a country filled with sunshine and exquisite cuisine. This was the place where people were friendly and the mood relaxed. Now that was affected. How dare this woman come along and destroy my good intentions and change the way I view the world and its inhabitants. The moment that final whine ended, I knew it was over-dramatised and I really was not going to start being suspicious of anyone in a black dress looking like a quaint old lady from the countryside.

We could have run back to demand my money, but I had no proof. No good pickpocket keeps the stolen stuff on his or her body after having lifted it. The goods are passed on so even if they are caught, there is never any material evidence.

We could have complained to the Spanish police, and a couple of them did walk past us fifteen minutes later, but what was I going to say? That I was dumb enough to open my wallet in public? That I suspect a fellow Spaniard of stealing a bit of money? We could have gone around and looked, but I was on my honeymoon – it was only twenty Euros and five Pounds. Also, I wanted to find something else to take over my short-term memory space and shove this shaming incident aside as soon as possible.

That was the bigger battle in my infuriated mind – shame and saving face versus outrage at a petty crime. I chose to deal with the former.

So with my pride swallowed and in a bad mood, I decided to continue with the holiday and headed for the museum. Surrounded by Picasso’s, it did not take long for me to enjoy another view of the world.

After all, everybody makes a mistake. Just remember to watch out in Barcelona. And move on. No point spoiling the rest of the holiday.

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