Backpackers travelling to Greatest Britain (centre of the universe) may find it hard to locate places that are ‘off-the-beaten-track’. This is due to obvious non-massive nature of the land. Those who do find themselves out there may simply be lost in darkened city alleys after another night in London’s famous “Church”. For those unfamiliar with the Church, it’s not about religion, unless drinking has become holy, which to some it has. The Church is the weekend home to all Aussies, Kiwi’s and Canadians working behind most of the London bars on a cultural exchange working visa… yeah right, and if you’re wondering where all the Irish are, well, the Australian’s who don’t give a XXXX for their XXXX, have employed them all to look after their bars in Australia whilst they drink real (warm) ale here in the UK. Enough about my unsurpassed knowledge of alcoholic migratory routes, and back to the point.
Just of the coast of North Devon is a small island that is three miles by half a mile. It is an island that is largely unheard of, definitely not on the backpacker route and is one of the most beautiful parts of the British Isles. It’s also very easy to get to and is perfect for the budget traveller with a tent who wants to get away from the main drags.
LUNDY ISLAND, Puffins, Seals, Basking Sharks, Dolphins, Whales, Goats and Twitchers… Climbing, diving, kayaking and birding…
Lundy Island has an amazing and well-documented history. It is owned by the National Trust and is operated by the Landmark Trust. There are twelve permanent residents who live and work on the Island, which consists of a variety of old historic buildings that now serve as accommodation and a working sheep farm. The island is one of Greatest Britain’s only marine nature reserves and, as it is easy to spot over fifty seals off the Eastern Coast daily, it is obvious that the island’s protected status is well deserved.
Diving
The island is one of the most popular sites in the UK to dive. It lies in the Gulf Stream and subsequently attracts a greater variety of marine life. Lundy Island also boasts numerous shipwrecks that lie off its shores at various distances and depths. Diving here can be dangerous, there is sometimes a nineteen knot current running close off shore, so independent divers should take care in planning their trip. Dive boats from the mainland run trips to the island. For their details, contact Lundy Island.
Climbing
Lundy’s cliffs are amazing and attract many climbers. There are, however, many restrictions to observe. Lundy has an incredibly diverse bird population and many of the routes are out of bounds for climbers depending on season. A good climbing guide should have all the relevant information or contact the Island direct for details. I met a couple of climbers on the island who told me that it is still worth while visiting Lundy to climb despite the restrictions. If you are staying for a week I’m told there are enough routes to do a couple a day.
Walking
Lundy is approximately seven miles in circumference. During my visit to Lundy I met a Canadian Animal Psychologist who helped me navigate the coastal region. I introduced her to Bimbling, Yomping and Tab-in-it, (British Army terminology – need to know basis only), and she introduced me to animal behaviour. At Bimble speed the island can be navigated in six to eight hours, this includes many rest breaks, seal singing and some paddling for the adventurous. At Yomp speed you can do the circuit in four to five hours, this includes three or four breaks, no singing and no paddling. At TAB speed (Tactical Advance to Battle) you could probably get round and back to the pub in two hours, this includes no rests, no singing, no paddling, a well stocked blister kit and a backpack weighing approximately 25kgs just for the sport of it. The coastline of Lundy is spectacular, most of which is a steep 400ft above sea level. Those familiar with some of the North Devon and Cornwall coastlines will know what great things to expect.
Twitchers and Birding
Twitchers are bird watchers, and Birding is bird watching. Lundy could be seen as an island of obsession. It is a very significant landmark for migratory birds and thousands of Twitchers visit the island annually to stare through ‘Bins’ (binoculars) at them. I know nothing of birds and on meeting several Twitchers, who refer to themselves as Birders, I found their excitement and enthusiasm for birds nothing less than obsessive. But you can’t knock these people; they have a great knowledge of birds. They recognise flight patterns, bird shapes, feeding habits, mating behaviour and vomited pallets. Furthermore, it kind of rubs off on you. After leaving the island I discovered that Kittywakes raft, peregrines attack from above and I could even spot a Shag 50 yards off-shore. Check out the weird duck on the pond near half way wall.
Highlights
- The North end of the East coast. Fantastic cliffs, sheltered spot, singing seals (they respond well to improvised Sinatra).
- The disused lighthouse “Old House” – Don’t leave without climbing it. The giant bulb at the top has been removed and replaced (by some genius) with a deck chair. As you sit on the deck chair surrounded by large glass planes you will survey 360 degrees of thick fog or, on nice days, the complete outline of the Island. Either way, the lighthouse is a wind instrument in it’s own right and the deck chair is nothing less than a throne. Don’t forget to sign the visitor’s book located close to the chair.
- The Marisco Tavern. Good food, good beer, great staff.
Why Lundy?
Lundy is a good choice because it’s not the obvious choice; it’s a different experience to others on offer in Greatest Britain. The wildlife is unique, some of the best and most unusual. The staff love the Island, they love being part of it and their knowledge of it is freely given and well informed. The ecology of the island has struck an admirable balance between humans and nature. Diving and climbing is superb. It’s quiet… very quiet, no cars, isolation – a reader’s, writer’s, painter’s paradise.
Entertainment
You largely make your own entertainment on Lundy. The emphasis on this island is escape, escape from the rush of mainland life. The Marisco Tavern is a great place to gather in the evenings, it has a well-stocked library and bar, Celtic Smooth recommended.
Not so good…
It is hard to find anything that disappoints on Lundy. The only one oddity was the location of the campsite close to the generator, but even that isn’t a big deal. The rest of the island is blissfully quiet.
Cost
Lundy Island could be an exclusive retreat for those with big budgets but it isn’t. Lundy is an outdoor education for all that visit and for me one of the best aspects of the island is that it is affordable and accessible to all. For those staying overnight on the island a return fare on the ship will cost £40, day-trippers pay less. The bar and restaurant with homemade food is very reasonably priced. Camping is the cheapest way to stay – £35 for seven nights and the facilities are new and modern. There are also numerous self-catering properties all of which are historic and range from old coast guard lookouts, a castle, a lighthouse and a manor house. There’s also a shop on the island selling food, Lundy Island stamps and souvenirs at prices virtually the same as the mainland.
Travel
There is no transport on the island, no buses, no taxis, no rickshaws, no camels, no nothing. If this is a problem then try Bangkok. Getting to the island is by ship that sails twice a week. It takes approximately two hours from Ilfracombe or Bideford. Contact the Lundy Shore Office for details. North Devon is pretty accessible with good bus services too and from Exeter.
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