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A Simple Formula for the Solo Traveler in England
Weymouth, England

Jubilee clock on Weymouth Esplanade

My first trip to England was in 1980. I was with a group of fifteen traveling with a university history professor as guide. In 1982 I returned with my sister-in-law as traveling companion. The next time I persuaded my husband to come along. While I admit traveling with companions provides certain advantages – the chief one, as far as I can see, is avoiding the awkwardness of dining alone in fine restaurants – these can’t begin to compensate for the delightful freedom I find traveling on my own. Since 1984 I’ve returned alone every year and still enjoy the pleasure of not having to consult a bored companion about what to do next. I’ve only had to please myself. However, I did have to overcome one major obstacle.

Most people believe that a private car is essential if they are going to leave London and find those off-the-beaten-tack treasures that make a trip to England so satisfying. I had to develop another method because I’m too chicken to drive in a terrifying network of interchanges and roundabouts while trying to follow a road map that requires constant attention and prevents me from enjoying the lovely countryside. Here’s my formula, it works for me it may work for you:

1. Choose a town to use as a base that has a station on one of British Rail’s most scenic routes.
2. Find a comfortable B&B within walking distance of the station in a neighborhood you like and wouldn’t be afraid to walk in after dark.
3. Study the timetables for that station’s trains and choose places to visit that seem interesting.

It’s as simple as that. Of course, it helps if you’ve done a bit of research and know what’s of interest in the area you’ve chosen. Make sure your B&B has a good reputation by checking with the many accommodation guide books. My choice last summer was the seaside town of Weymouth overlooking the English Channel on Dorset’s southern coast. My B&B was the Channel View on Brunswick Terrace, one of a dozen or so attractive, neat-as-a-pin guest houses standing in a row right on the sea front, away from the town’s heavy traffic. In the morning I woke up to the sound of the sea that I could see right outside my window. In the evening, after a busy day exploring, I could sit on the beach and watch the sun set or walk around Weymouth’s picturesque harbor.

Weymouth is an ideal choice because its Britrail Station accommodates two entirely different lines leading to two entirely different parts of the country: The Weymouth-London-Waterloo line and the Weymouth-Bristol-Cardiff line. I stayed in Weymouth for six weeks and didn’t begin to exhaust the possibilities. In one direction I had my choice of Poole, Bournemouth, Christchurch, Southampton and Winchester, to name just a few of the better known towns on the Weymouth-London-Waterloo line. In the other direction I could travel to Bath or Bristol or any of the smaller towns in between with intriguing names like Maiden Newton, Chetnole, and Yetminster.

Hamilton’s Restaurant

This is a line that represents the British rural railway at its best. I could reach all of these places, explore at a leisurely pace, and return to Weymouth well before dark. It was a short three block walk from the station to my B&B. If I returned too late for the set 6:30 dinner at Channel View I could dine at Hamilton’s Restaurant right next door. Hamilton’s is a bit up-market and bit more expensive but it serves splendid continental meals from 7:00 until 10:00pm. Hamilton’s was handy as well on those days when I decided to stay in Weymouth or when my train didn’t leave until later in the day. Then I could enjoy a Cappuccino and a buttered scone, or some other tasty treat as I gazed out to sea from one of their pretty white sidewalk tables.

My spotlessly clean room with its sea view, private bathroom, color TV and tea making facilities was only £40 a night. Less for me since I was paying by the week. This price included a marvelous English breakfast in the congenial company of my hosts, Ian and Ruth Cowley, and their other Channel View guests. (See how my “formula” eliminates the awkward dining problem?)

Another reason I liked Weymouth was that I saw very few American tourists and fewer still tourists from any other foreign country. I hate it when I’ve traveled 6,000 miles and find myself surrounded with almost as many Americans as I see at home. Weymouth is a traditional seaside resort where traditional English people go to relax. Every one of my days in Weymouth was made happier because of their cheerful, friendly, mustn’t grumble attitude.

Weymouth seafront

With its wide crescent shaped bay lined with fine late 18^th and early 19^th century terraces, Weymouth itself is interesting. King George III made it fashionable when he visited almost every year between 1789 and 1805. Along with many members of his court, he brought his bathing machine and introduced the newly fashionable sport of sea-bathing to Weymouth and Weymouth has remained popular with British holidaymakers ever since. They are attracted to its wide sandy beach and its lovely view of Portland Bill – the narrow, rugged peninsula Thomas Hardy used in so many of his novels and short stories which he called “the Gibraltar of Wessex.”

East of the bay sunbathers can see white cliffs that are prettier than those at Dover. The harbor is always busy with colorful commercial fishing and crabbing vessels as well as all sorts of pleasure craft. Although the big cities like Bath and Bournemouth were fun to visit, I was more intrigued with the smaller towns and villages like Dorchester, Wool, Wareham, and Moreton.

After a lovely day in Bath which included lunch at Sally Lund’s, my train pulled into the Weymouth station at 6:40 and I was back in my cozy room at Channel View five minutes later. After a quick shower and change I went next door to Hamilton’s and as I sipped my gin and tonic and waited for my rack of lamb to be served I studied my train timetables to decide the next day’s adventure.

I decided to travel to the Naval Base in Portsmouth to see The Victory – Nelson’s flag ship at the Battle of Trafalgar, The Mary Rose, built for Henry III in 1509 and HMS Warrior, the ship that Napoleon described as “a black snake among the rabbits.” The journey to Portsmouth took less than two hours each way with an easy change of trains in Southampton. After another great meal at Hamilton’s there was still plenty of time to stroll along the beach.

Weymouth harbor

In June it doesn’t get dark until nearly 10:00pm. I took my binoculars and watched the ships coming and going across the bay near Portland Bill, then watched a very skilled man on the beach sculpting a battleship out of sand. The little fairy lights that are strung along the Esplanade came on as I walked slowly back to Channel View listening to the cry of seagulls as they settled for the night. Back in my room, as I puffed up the pillows on my bed and got ready to enjoy an evening of British TV. I could see the pleasure craft in the bay as the sun was setting. Those aboard seemed to be having a good time – and without a doubt so was I