A Stay in the Penthouse
Osnabrack, Germany

Had I stuck to my original plan I would have spent a grand total of about nine hours in Osnabrack, Germany. As it turned out I found myself reluctantly checking out of the Penthouse Backpackers City Hostel four days later…

After ferrying in to Rostock, Germany from Hanko, Finland, I was heading for the thrills of Amsterdam when I realized the time I was coming in would have me bunking down in the Hamburg Bonhoff for about 5 hours. Pulling out my trusty Hostels of Europe listing I found a hostel in Osnabrack, about three hours from Amsterdam. I made the call from the train to see if they had a room. Cathy answered the phone and assured me they had a bed for me. I informed her that I was on the train and would not be arriving in Osnabrack until 22:45, almost three hours after the 20:00h check-in time. She assured me it would be no problem at all and that I should simply call her back when I reached Osnabrack and she would meet me at the hostel. Already feeling good about my choice I settled back into my seat and grabbed a quick nap on the train.

Upon arriving at the Osnabrack Bonhoff I called Cathy as she requested. She informed me she was already at the hostel waiting for me and that I should not get a cab as the hostel was only 500 meters from the train station. As I took the short walk I was impressed by the cleanliness of the city itself. When I arrived I took the four flights of steps up to the hostel floor (hey, when they say ‘Penthouse’ they mean it). Cathy met me at the door and was bursting with energy and a welcome friendliness after my long trip from Finland.

She asked me how long I was planning on staying and I informed her I was only planning on sleeping the night and then taking off early in the morning for Amsterdam. Undaunted she took the time to show me around the huge hostel and almost apologetically told me that I would be in a six-person room… but then added that I was the only one in it. With my Hostels of Europe card my night’s lodging came to only €11.

Cathy told me a bit about the city and what it had to offer. She piqued my interest like a pro, and before heading back to my room for some welcome sleep I told her I might have to stay a day and explore the city.

When I awoke the next morning I found that Cathy had taken the time to translate a city map into English and mark some of the places I had mentioned I would enjoy visiting. I had opted not to have the optional breakfast offered by The Penthouse Backpackers, so I headed out to find a cup of cappuccino and a croissant. I found not only a great little coffee shop about a block away from the hostel but also a grocery store, department store and plenty of restaurants. As I marveled at the wonderful architecture throughout the city I found the hostel was only about two blocks from the walkplatz and city center.

I spent the day wandering around Osnabrack and was pleasantly surprised to find so much culture and history in a city I had not even planned on visiting. The Peace Chamber, located in the town hall, saw the negotiation of the Peace of Westphalia, the treaty that ended the Thirty Years War in 1648. Cathy also informed me that Erich-Maria Remarque, author of the novel All Quiet on the Western Front, was born in Osnabrack in 1898. I visited the memorial to him that included a collection of pictures by Jewish painter Felix Nussbaum. Osnabruck is also bursting with hiking and biking trails, over 2200km of well-maintained and lovely paths. Being an avid hiker, Cathy maintains a library of trail maps and guides at the hostel for guest use. While you are enjoying the trails, be sure to make a stop at Scholerberg, the Osnabrack zoo, home to 300 species of animals from all over the world. Right next to the zoo you will also find the Planetarium and the Museum of Nature and Environment.

If you find yourself in Osnabrack during the Christmas season you will be pleasantly surprised to find one of the best Christmas fairs in Northern Germany. Spilling out from the city center amid the medieval churches, blanketed in a soft bed of snow with a cup of gluwine (hot mulled wine purchased from the stalls that dot the shopping area) you are sure to find something to catch your fancy and may end up doing all your Christmas shopping right there.

Upon returning to The Penthouse Backpackers after a lovely day in the city I found that a roommate had joined me, a Dane making his living playing guitar and wandering around Europe. He informed me there was a Doors tribute band playing that night. He was on the guest list and would get me into the show if I wanted to go. After arranging a time to meet I headed across the street to the Restoranti Venicia, where I had an incredible meal of French onion soup, penne pasta with shrimp and a carafe of red wine. Afterwards I returned to the hostel and met up with the Dane and a few other guests. We walked to the venue and enjoyed a great night of cheap beer, good music and fun. Since the Penthouse Backpackers has no curfew and everyone gets a key to the front door, we were able to slip back inside at our late hour without disturbing any of the other hostel guests.

The next morning I woke and did a load of wash in the hostel laundry room (€2.30 for washer, dryer and washing powder). The Penthouse Backpackers has a divine terrace where many guests sit and pass the time. There is also a common room with a satellite TV as well as a full kitchen (complete with all the pots, pans, and spices you need to create a culinary delight).

Osnabr�ck is a wonderful city with plethora of culture, sights and interesting diversions to offer every type of traveler. The Penthouse Backpackers is one of the most pleasant hostels in which I have ever had the pleasure of being a guest. The moment you walk in you feel as if you can kick off your shoes and make yourself at home. The rooms are quite large, with wall lockers roomy enough to fit a good-sized pack and the wealth of information maintained by the hostel staff, not just on Osnabrack but for all of Germany and most of Europe is extraordinary and supplemented by the knowledge and helpfulness of Cathy and the rest of the staff.

Put Osnabrack on your list of ‘must-see’ places, and by all means plan on spending a few days as a guest at the Penthouse Backpackers hostel. It is sure to be one of the most memorable stays of your trip.

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